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  • Stage 2 - Wessex Ridgeway - Thorncombe to Beaminster - April 29th 2025

    Official Stage Statistics Route distance – 9.53 miles Total ascent – 1520 feet Total descent - 1833 feet Highest point – 897 feet Fly-through of this stage Logistics Drive to Axminster from Premier Inn Seaton & park car EX13 5NX RingGo 42923 Taxi to Thorncombe – Av2Go Taxis 07398 421042 Walk to Beaminster Catch bus CB3 from Red Lion to Bridport Bus Station at 15:49 - 17 minutes Catch bus X53 from Bridport Bus Station to Axminster at 16:08 - 55 minutes Drive to Premier Inn Seaton EX12 2NA & stay overnight   Christian, the taxi driver from the day before who brought me back from Thorncombe to Axminster arranged for Peter of Av2Go Taxis to take me back there at 08:00 from Axminster Station. My Walk On today’s walk I would climb to the top of Dorset’s 2 highest hills and like yesterday I’d have fabulous views of the Dorset countryside all day. My aim for today was to not miss a turn from the printed instructions but this wasn't to be! Like yesterday, I knew that there would be no stopping points along today’s walk for food or water, so I’d have to load up with plenty of water and for my lunch I’d have to make do with a banana and pains au chocolat taken from the Premier Inn at breakfast time. I also remembered my drone today, so that and its controller and spare batteries added to the weight on my back. My taxi turned up at Axminster Station more or less on time and by 08:30 I was back in sunny Thorncombe and heading off towards Synderford. After a steady drop, the trail did a fairly steep and rapid climb of 350 feet up Venn Hill to emerge onto Blackdown Hill (705 ft / 215 m). This was today’s first ‘Wow!’ moment. What fabulous views again as I walked across the ridge towards Pilsdon Pen in the distance. The village shop in Thorncombe. Could really have done with it being open at the end of yesterday's walk Another glorious day in the Dorset countryside Looking back towards Thorncombe First climb of the day brings me onto Blackdown Hill with Pilsdon Pen in the distance Blackdown Hill with Thorncombe in the background From the air you definitely see you're walking along a ridge I walked through a field with cows in it. Signage was a bit sketchy so I don’t know whether or not I should have walked across it and the written instructions weren’t much help but it was certainly in the right direction. Anyway, the cows were very inquisitive and started following me, getting quite close. Although I’ve never been hit by a cow, I was slightly relieved to reach the gate and pass through it unscathed. Half an hour later I reached the trig point at the top of Pilsdon Pen. Friendly cows Don't they have a lovely field I'm off course at the top of Pilsdon Pen Pilsdon Pen is officially the 2nd highest point in Dorset at 909 ft / 277 m. It was bequeathed to the National Trust in 1982. For many years it was thought to be the highest point but a modern survey revealed that Lewesdon Hill had it at 915 ft / 279 m. I’d be passing Lewesdon Hill later in the day. The top of Pilsdon Pen was the site of an Iron Age hillfort. The 360° views were absolutely spectacular and I spent quite some time taking everything in. I naturally assumed that the trail continued across the top of the hill and then down towards Lewesdon Hill so didn’t bother referring to the written instructions. Of course I was wrong, as the trail doesn’t actually even reach the summit but how ridiculous that it doesn’t! After descending the hill I soon discovered I was quite a way off course again and had to go ‘off piste’ to get back to where I should be. It’s no wonder my walks are always longer than they should be. I really should look more closely at the OS maps before setting off. You get a good idea of the size of the Iron Age hillfort - April 2026 That's Lewesdon Hill covered in trees behind me What a fantastic position Pilsdon Pen has - April 2026 Descending down the incorrect path It's quite a steep descent Back on course, my next target was Lewesdon Hill. Although Lewesdon is only 6 ft higher than Pilsdon, there was a 450 ft descent before the climb up Lewesdon Hill. Once again I assumed the Wessex Ridgeway would take me to the summit but once again I was wrong; it actually skirts around the hill. Anyway, I was quite happy being wrong because the path I took was in beech and oak woodland that provided welcome shade from the warm sun. Eventually I reached a National Trust sign with a map of the hill showing me where I was and how off course I was – again! The map brought home to me that the actual summit was so surrounded by trees that any views would have to be through trees, so I didn’t bother climbing to the very top; instead I got myself back on course once again. Back on course At the bottom of the final push to the top of Lewesdon Hill - but off course! Descending and emerging from the woodland, the last 3 miles of this walk were through fields, many of which had either sheep or cows grazing. So many lovely views; I really enjoyed this part of the walk. In the distance I could see a clump of trees on top of a hill overlooking Beaminster. The path took me up this hill – called Gerrard’s Hill. At 571 ft / 174 m there were spectacular views from the top. Lovely woods Nice views from the side of Lewesdon Hill On the right is a memorial to Jean Verdun Marie Aime De Cloedt, a Belgian pilot who died in a Spitfire crash on the hill in 1942 A bit of clambering was needed here Final climb today to the top of Gerrard's Hill Trigpoint on Gerrard's Hill View from Gerrard's Hill Beaminster from Gerrard's Hill A very steep descent from Gerrard’s Hill brought me into the really attractive town of Beaminster. It was about 3 o’clock and I was hot and thirsty. Like the first stage there had been no shops or pubs along the walk. There were 2 pubs in The Square in the centre of town but unbelievably they were both closed! Google Maps showed a hotel called The Olerod about 150 yards away. Thankfully the bar was open. My bus was due at 15:49 from The Square so I had time for a pint and a packet of crisps in the hotel’s lovely garden. I took the opportunity to ask the lady behind the bar how I should pronounce ‘Beaminster’. She told me that locals pronounce it ‘Behminster’ as in ‘Bay window’! This is steeper than it looks Glad I didn't have to climb! Happy donkeys Beaminster Beaminster The Square in Beaminster Both pubs closed! Olerod Hotel Cold pint of Guinness 0.0 whilst waiting for my bus The CB3 bus turned up on time and took me to Bridport Bus Station where I caught the interconnecting X53 bus back to Axminster – perfect! Back in Axminster I collected my car and drove back to the Seaton Premier Inn. Despite going off course a number of times yet again this had been another brilliant walk with the logistics working a treat. The instructions I'd been following the last 2 days assumed my 2 walks would be done in just 1 day. I'm well used to walking 20+ mile walks on flat terrain but I'm too old and unfit to walk this kind of distance on hilly terrain. In any case, I want to take my time and really enjoy this part of our beautiful country. This was my last night in Seaton; tomorrow I’d be moving to the Premier Inn in Yeovil for a few days.

  • Stage 1 - Wessex Ridgeway - Lyme Regis to Thorncombe - April 28th 2025

    Official Stage Statistics Route distance – 11.12 miles Total ascent – 2016 feet Total descent - 1532 feet Highest point – 845 feet Fly-through of this stage Logistics Drive to Premier Inn Seaton EX12 2NA & stay overnight (Sunday) Drive to Axminster & park car EX13 5NX RingGo 42923 Catch X51/X53 Jurassic Coaster bus to Lyme Regis - 08:13 then hourly - 27 minutes Walk to Thorncombe Taxi back to Axminster & pick up car – M Cabs 01297 442222 Drive to Premier Inn Seaton EX12 2NA & stay overnight   Thorncombe is not blessed with buses to get me back to my car; therefore, I would need to get a taxi. The reason I chose to park in Axminster for the day rather than Lyme Regis was down to the cost of taxis. It was much cheaper to get a taxi to Axminster than it would have been to get one back to Lyme Regis and I can be mean when it suits! My Walk I knew that between Lyme Regis and Thorncombe there would be no shops or pubs to buy water or food. Bearing in mind the weather forecast for the day which was warm and sunny I made sure I was loaded with 2 large bottles of water. At breakfast I’d helped myself to a couple of pains au chocolat and a banana to eat for lunch. My backpack was also loaded with my drone controller and spare batteries as I knew there would be some great aerial photo opportunities. Number one schoolboy error of the day was that I discovered that I’d left the actual drone at the hotel; so, I’d be carrying a load of pointless excess weight all day. I had at least remembered my camera so wouldn’t have to rely on my phone. Paddling in the English Channel at Lyme Regis. Next paddle 360 miles away in The Wash The trail starts from the harbour in Lyme Regis known as The Cobb The first of a number of new information boards for the Great Chalk Way. This one on the Lyme Regis sea front Anyway, just after 09:00 I set off from sunny Lyme Regis on the start of my 2025 walking challenge. Clutching the 13 pages of detailed walking instructions, spirits were high as I walked along the River Lim within the town. Worryingly I soon discovered that the instructions were brilliant just as long as you followed each step to the letter and never took your eyes off them! The way that they were written meant that you miss one step and you were b***ered! It would then be necessary to refer to the OS Maps app. This is where I immediately started to miss the signage that National Trails benefit from. Constantly relying on the instructions, looking out for Wessex Ridgeway waymarkers and referring to the OS Maps app would lead to so many wrong turnings being taken all week.   Lyme Regis Colourful Lyme Regis The path gave way to a wood known as Hole Common which was full of bluebells. I would very quickly become bluebell blasé. I deliberately chose to start my challenge at the end of April because I wanted bluebells and I certainly wasn’t disappointed. It was a little disconcerting to cross paths with a dog walker who was wearing wellies and the path through the woods was pretty muddy in places resulting in mud up over my ankles. I emerged triumphantly from Hole Common at the side of the busy A35 at Penn. My instructions told me to cross the road and admire the fabulous view. It’s fair to say that it really was a fabulous view of green fields, trees, hedges and hills for as far as the eye could see; the first ‘Wow!’ moment of the day. Bridge over the River Lim One of the very few fingerposts mentioning Wessex Ridgeway Hole Common The 1st climb of today up to the A35 The view from Penn View from Penn A couple of miles further on and I took the first wrong turning of the day. As mentioned earlier I didn’t want to spend my whole time looking at the printed instructions or my phone. At a junction where I could turn either left or right, in the absence of a Wessex Ridgeway waymarker (or indeed any other trail's waymarker) I took a bad decision to turn right up a really steep hill.  Lovely views from the top of the hill but then I had to come all the way down again. Back on track I reached the village of Wootton Fitzpaine, one of the lowest places on this stage. Colourful climb up the WRONG steep hill! Very pretty but I'm up the wrong hill That's better. Now I'm in Wootton Fitzpaine where I should be The Shed Shop sells farm goods on trust. Joints of lamb in the freezer Now I started the long climb up towards Coney’s Castle, site of a small Iron Age hill fort. There were fabulous 360 degree views all the way up to the fort which at 730 feet high is listed as the 19th highest hill in Dorset. The National Trust now looks after Coney’s Castle which at this time of year is carpeted with bluebells.  The fort is bisected by a small lane that leads to Lambert’s Castle Hill. A bench by the roadside overlooking the countryside provided a perfect spot for me to take a break and eat my banana & pains au chocolat I’d taken from the Premier Inn. I'm now climbing the correct hill I'm definitely correct this time Looking down at Wootton Fitzpaine Great views all the way up to Coney's Castle Just fabulous I've reached Coney's Castle Coney's Castle bluebells Coney's Castle bluebells Bluebell heaven at Coney's Castle A bench with a view............. ...........and what a view it is! Duly refreshed I continued along the lane with another steep climb up to Lambert’s Castle Hill. At 850 feet it’s listed as the 9th highest hill in Dorset. The hill is topped by an Iron Age hill fort, Lambert’s Castle that is around 2,500 years old. The hilltop was used as a racecourse at some stage and was also the site of a fair for over 200 years. Once again there were fabulous far-reaching views. I really wished I’d had my drone with me! This was definitely the high spot of the walk. However, to rectify matters, I returned in April 2026 armed with my drone and so glad I did! Next climb is up to Lambert's Castle Tomorrow's walk will be to Pilsdon Pen & Lewesdon Hill in the distance Lambert's Castle Hill - drone view April 2026 I can see for miles - drone view April 2026 Drone's view from Lambert's Castle Hill towards Coney's Castle beyond the pylon & Lyme Bay - April 2026 Trig Post at Lambert's Castle Hill - 846 ft / 258 m For the next couple of miles after Lambert’s Castle there was a relatively steep drop followed by a gentler climb through woods and trees before the path dropped once again into Thorncombe where I chose to end this stage. On our way down now. The 'Wow!'s have peaked quite literally for now On the way down Hawkmoor Hill Some really handsome chickens Thorncombe with a 3 in 1 trails fingerboard Thorncombe Thorncombe is a really pretty village but it has a rubbish phone signal. I had to walk a hundred yards up the road to get a signal to phone for a taxi to pick me up and take me back to my car in Axminster. £23 was very reasonable I thought for a 9 mile journey. As he was driving back my driver arranged for another firm to bring me back the following morning. So, stage 1 completed and the logistics had worked perfectly! As for my skills in following written walking instructions, there was certainly room for improvement. Hopefully I'd do better tomorrow.

  • Stage 4 - Wessex Ridgeway - Maiden Newton to Lower Ansty - May 1st 2025

    Official Stage Statistics Route distance – 15.66 miles Total ascent – 2180 feet Total descent - 2087 feet Highest point – 860 feet Fly-through of this stage Logistics Drive to Yeovil Pen Mill station BA21 5DD - 0.7 mile & park car APCOA Location ID 2204                                           Catch train to Maiden Newton 07:33 - 22 mins                                               Walk to Lower Ansty                                                  Get taxi to Blandford Forum - Oakwood Taxis - https://blandford-oakwoodtaxis.co.uk/   - 01258 455555                                                      Catch CR4 bus to Yeovil Pen Mill station BA21 5DD at 17:40 – 98 mins Drive to Premier Inn Yeovil Town Centre BA20 1LT & stay overnight                                            My Walk Today’s walk would almost certainly be the toughest of the whole Great Chalk Way, being almost 16 miles with a total ascent of 2180 feet and 5 steep climbs. I would definitely be paying for having had an easy walk yesterday. The weather forecast for today was unsurprisingly more sunshine with a maximum temperature of 27°C – which ordinarily would be really nice if you’re not on a long walk with numerous climbs. Between start and finish, once again there would be no shops or pubs along the route without making a combined detour of at least 2 miles. As things panned out during the day I really wish I’d decided before I set off to detour to Cerne Abbas for a lunchtime break at 1 of its 3 – yes 3 – pubs!   Whilst mentioning Cerne Abbas, it is famous for the Cerne Giant, an ancient naked figure sculpted into the chalk hillside above Cerne Abbas. The Giant is without doubt a man!! At 180 ft tall he is Britain’s largest chalk hill figure and perhaps the best known. Archaeologists believe the Giant was possibly first constructed in the late Saxon period which ended in 1066 but really, it’s a bit of a mystery - Cerne Giant   The Wessex Ridgeway doesn’t actually go past the Giant; however, it does pass within a mile on the same ridge. On my drive down to Lyme Regis a few days earlier to start the Great Chalk Way, I stopped off at the visitor car park to get some drone footage of the Cerne Giant.  The Cerne Giant The Wessex Ridgeway doesn't actually go past the Giant Back to the walk. I was staying in the Yeovil Town Centre Premier Inn and was down for brekkie at 06:30, after which I drove the short distance to Yeovil Pen Mill Station; in fact, I could have walked it as the station is only a 15 minute walk from the Premier Inn. As is my way when planning my walks, I aim to choose locations with good public transport links. Yeovil has 2 stations. Yeovil Junction is on the London to Exeter main line, whilst Yeovil Pen Mill is on the Heart of Wessex Line with trains running between Gloucester and Bristol Temple Meads to Weymouth. Most importantly, Maiden Newton is 4 stops from Pen Mill. I arrived just in time for the 07:33 train. Maiden Newton is a passing place for trains as it's single line running between Yeovil & Dorchester From Maiden Newton my walk today would first take me on a steep climb and descent into the village of Sydling St Nicholas. From there a straight and steady climb to the top of Gore Hill at 850 feet would then be followed by a steady descent into the hamlet of Up Cerne. Another climb from Minton Parva to a minor road would bring me out opposite the Giants Head Caravan & Camping Park. The Wessex Ridgeway would continue through the caravan park with 2 more climbs up Ball Hill and finally, Lyscombe Hill, the highest point on this stage at 860 feet. Dorsetshire Gap would soon follow and it is here that I would leave the trail and continue to Lower Ansty where I would finish my walk.   Everything went swimmingly well initially. Like every other day the views were spectacular. Sydling St Nicholas is a really attractive village with plenty of thatched roof properties. Hoping for good luck today! Looking back at Maiden Newton on the 1st climb of the day You have to cross the busy A37 to reach Sydling St Nicholas Did as I was asked On the walk down to Sydling St Nicholas Sydling St Nicholas Sydling St Nicholas Sydling St Nicholas The climb out of the village up Gore Hill was relatively easy with bluebells, wild garlic and other spring flowers aplenty alongside the path. Up Cerne comprises an estate of 1,930 acres centered around a Grade II listed manor house. It includes eight let properties, most of which are listed buildings, a church, farm buildings, woodland, farmland and fishing lakes. So pretty! Looking back at Sydling St Nicholas The path up Gore Hill Pretty spring flowers Spring flowers & great views The instructions said 'Walk across field towards the trees' Dower House - Up Cerne Cank Cottages - Up Cerne Up Cerne Lake in Up Cerne After crossing the A352 at Minterne Parva I began the day’s third climb towards the caravan park. This is where things went wrong. I religiously followed the written instructions to arrive at a point with a glorious view over Up Cerne, even though there had been no obvious path to follow. With what I now know I was just 300 yards away from the road; however, I took a wrong turning and by the time I reached the road I was 1.2 miles off course. Whilst only classed as a minor road, this road was very busy and I was constantly having to walk along the very uneven verges. Eventually I found an entrance to a field and I thought I’d do better walking along the inside of this field. Sadly, there was no way of getting out of this field so I had to walk all the way back again to continue along the road. In the space of 90 minutes, I’d managed to walk just ¾ of a mile of the route. Wow! Wild garlic galore at Minterne Parva More wild garlic Former cock fighting ring at Minterne Parva Definitely on the right track at this point Still doing well with views back to Up Cerne Manor So how on earth did I manage to end up at Gales Hill? Idiot!! I reached the caravan park hot and bothered – actually, sweating profusely as it had got very humid. I’d already drunk all the water from my 2 bottles and I was only half way through the walk. I put the written instructions in my backpack and decided that using them along with the OS Maps app was hopeless; going forward I’d rely on the app and waymarkers alone. I asked at the caravan park office if there was anywhere I could get water. Thankfully, the lady pointed me in the direction of a standpipe and I filled my bottles.  At last - there it is. The entrance to the caravan park The caravan park Wessex Ridgeway continues after this gate at the back of the caravan park From the caravan park, the path dropped gently before the inevitable steep climb up Ball Hill. The reward for this climb was an incredible display of bluebells and wild garlic in the woods on the hilltop. Naturally, a descent followed to the hamlet of Folly, ahead of the day’s final and highest ascent to Lyscombe Hill (aka Higher Melcombe Hill). As I was walking up the steep path, a couple of fellow walkers with their dog were coming the other way. We exchanged pleasantries and as you do, I asked where they’d walked from and where they were heading to today. They reminded me that when I reached Dorsetshire Gap I would have to sign the visitors book. Dropping down towards Alton Pancras Thankfully didn't have to climb up here Some unpleasantness! Bluebells at the top of Ball Hill Waymarkers on a random stone structure in the middle of huge field Cows not to be argued with but looking at their undercarriages, they have other things on their minds! Having reached the top of Lyscombe Hill, the Wessex Ridgeway began a gentle descent. It took a left and after about 700 yards and the best displays of bluebells & wild garlic, I reached the fabled Dorsetshire Gap. I’d seen Dorsetshire Gap mentioned many times when doing my research for the Wessex Ridgeway. Essentially it is the meeting point of 5 ancient tracks   with steep, narrow, man-made cuttings; a crossroads, recognised for centuries, where people and animals moving east/west on the Great Ridgeway were able to access north/south tracks. Looking at it this way, I could see just what a special place this was. The lidded bin containing the current and previous visitors books was plain to see. What a wonderful tradition to keep alive. It was great reading some of the previous entries and naturally I signed in too; thank goodness though that a pen was supplied! Definitely worthy of a 'Wow!' Wow ! And 'Wow!' again Dorsetshire Gap Dorsetshire Gap Current & previous visitors books What terrible writing I have! AKA Dorset Gap I chose to leave the Wessex Ridgeway for the day at Dorsetshire Gap. I took one of the north/south tracks and walked a further 2 miles to Lower Ansty via Higher Melcombe. I reached The Fox pub at about 16:30. Having set off from Yeovil Pen Station at 07:30 with no real breaks, this had been a long, hot day, exacerbated by my stupidity near the caravan park. Nevertheless, I felt I’d earned my pint, crisps & flapjack, as since breakfast I’d only eaten 1 banana and a 2 finger Kit Kat! On my way towards Lower Ansty On my way towards Lower Ansty The Fox - Lower Ansty Well deserved I feel in spite of stupidity My plan for getting back to Yeovil was to get a taxi to Blandford Forum from where I’d get a bus. My hope was that I’d be able to catch the 17:40 CR4 from Blandford, as otherwise I’d have to wait until 19:40 for the next and last bus. Blandford Forum is 10 miles from Lower Ansty. Paul from Oakwood Taxis in Blandford picked me up and dropped me off at my bus stop with 5 minutes to spare – yippee! Many thanks to Paul who certainly did not drive like a 'Sunday afternoon' driver. The fact that the CR4 bus would take 100 minutes to reach Yeovil really didn’t bother me in the slightest as it went through some beautiful countryside and it gave me time to unwind and look back on yet another lovely day walking in Dorset. Back in Yeovil I spent a 2nd night in the Premier Inn. Not quite the 15.67 miles official distance! My plan for the next day had been to walk the next stage as far as Iwerne Courtney, stay 1 more night in Yeovil and then drive home. When I woke up next morning however, my body told me that 5 nights away from home and 4 long walks were enough! Fortunately, I make all my Premier Inn bookings flexible, allowing me to amend check-in dates as many times as I like, up to 13:00 on the day. So, I changed the check-in date to sometime later in the summer and prepared to drive home. It was yet another perfect day so I decided to call in at National Trust Stourhead on my way home. Were it not so far away from home, Stourhead would easily be my favourite National Trust property to visit; the gardens are spectacular and for once I’d timed my visit to perfection to see the rhododendrons in full flower.     The iconic view at NT Stourhead NT Stourhead UPDATE August 2025 I mentioned earlier in this post that I wished I'd visited Cerne Abbas itself. Over the August Bank Holiday weekend I returned to Dorset & Wiltshire to catch up on some of the places I'd missed before or wanted to spend more time investigating. I parked my car in the Kettle Bridge Lane car park and followed the riverside walk along the River Cerne into the village. It was certainly well worth the stop to explore more of this pretty village. The River Cerne Cerne Abbey was built in 987 AD. The original abbey building is long gone and in its place an imposing private residence has been built. However, the remains of the Abbot's Porch - the entrance to the Abbot's Hall - still stands as does Cerne Abbey Guest House. Cerne Abbey is now a private residence Cerne Abbas Abbot's Porch remains Cerne Abbey Guest House Inside Cerne Abbey Guest House Cerne Abbas village The Giant Inn pub The Giant Inn pub A chalkboard outside the Royal Oak pub in the village centre was advertising coffee and apple cake and as it was approaching cake o'clock now seemed a good time for a break! The Royal Oak pub Just what I needed!

  • Stage 5 - Wessex Ridgeway - Lower Ansty to Iwerne Courtney - May 9th 2025

    Official Stage Statistics Route distance – 11.50 miles Total ascent – 1619 feet Total descent - 1399 feet Highest point – 880 feet Fly-through of this stage Logistics Drive to Premier Inn Salisbury South Milford SP1 2FF & stay overnight - 8th May Drive to Blandford Forum & park car - Langton Road Car Park DT11 7EN Get taxi to Lower Ansty - Oakwood Taxis - 01258 455555 Walk to Iwerne Courtney or Shroton - The Cricketers Catch CR7 bus to Blandford Forum - 15:31 17:07 or 18:42 Pick up car & drive to The Talbot Iwerne Minster DT11 8QN. Stay overnight                               My Walk After a week back home, it was time for another 4 stages. My aim over the next 4 days was to complete the Wessex Ridgeway section, the Cranborne Droves Way and reach Amesbury on the Sarsen Way. As I didn’t want to have to lug overnight stuff around with me on my walks in addition to my camera and drone stuff, I devised what I thought should be a foolproof plan. All will eventually become clear!   I started on the Thursday morning by driving down from home to Salisbury and parked in the large city centre car park near Sainsbury’s. With the afternoon to spare I did an out of sequence short walk along the Sarsen Way to Amesbury – see later. I then drove to the Salisbury South Milford Premier Inn and stayed the night. Next morning at reception I left a holdall containing overnight stuff I’d need for Sunday night for them to look after for me. I explained that even though it was now Friday, I’d collect the bag on Sunday. They were very happy to do this for me. Unlike Travelodge, Premier Inn will look after luggage for you; another reason why I like Premier Inn so much.   I drove to Blandford Forum and parked my car. I then got a taxi back to Lower Ansty to begin Stage 5. Thanks to Paul and Bruce, the 2 taxi drivers from Oakwood Taxis Blandford Forum  who transported me from and to Lower Ansty.   Today’s walk would take me up Bulbarrow Hill; at almost 900 feet it’s the 3 rd  highest point of the Wessex Ridgeway. 5 miles of walking along the ridge would then give way to a really steep descent through Shillingstone Woods into Shillingstone. Another couple of miles and having crossed the River Stour I’d be climbing to the top of Hambledon Hill, a tiddler of about 630 feet. The stage would finish with a descent into Iwerne Courtney or Shroton as it’s also known as!   On yet another gorgeous spring day I rejoined the Wessex Ridgeway by Crockers Farm, Stoke Wake and began the steep climb past Rawlsbury Camp to the top of Bulbarrow Hill. The camp is a small pear-shaped Iron Age hillfort on a spur of Bullbarrow Hill and interestingly, is situated lower than the top of the hill. The 360° views of the countryside were fabulous. The hill is recognised as a take-off site for paragliding and hang gliding but from what I’ve read, it is rarely used now. It has gained a reputation as a poor site suffering from turbulence at times and no bottom landing. However, it is used by aeromodellers and on this day, by a drone flyer! For anyone old enough to remember the ITV programmes ‘How’ and ‘Out Of Town’ from the 1960s, Jack Hargreaves had his ashes scattered from the top of the hill. When his wife died 4 years later, she also had her ashes scattered from here. Two large radio towers on top of the hill have been in use since 1942 and can be seen for miles around. Looking back downhill from Rawlsbury Camp - revisited in August 2025 Rawlsbury Camp - revisited in August 2025 Bulbarrow Hill from Rawlsbury Camp - revisited in August 2025 Fabulous views This is more like the fencing in a POW camp! Guessing the landowner doesn't want people in his field Looking down at Chitcombe Down Looking back towards the radio masts on top of Bulbarrow Hill The great views keep on coming The route continued along the road past Woolland Hill and Ibberton before branching off to the right and continuing through some stunning countryside over Bell Hill and Okeford Hill, before reaching Shillingstone Hill. It really made you feel good to be alive! Beyond Ibberton the trail left the road   Contented piggies! Very striking orange - not a camera trick Walking towards Okeford Hill Walking towards Okeford Hill Some welcome shade at the side of Okeford Hill Trig point at top of Shillingstone Hill There then followed a very steep descent through Shillingstone Woods. I was so happy I was walking the trail in this direction as I really didn’t fancy having to climb up through the woods! The woods ended in the pretty village of Shillingstone. I followed the path through the village and across a footbridge over the River Stour. I could see Hambledon Hill ahead of me and was expecting a steep climb up to it. However, this would come a little later. The path took me through Hanford Farm. Next to the farm was Hanford Girls Independent Prep School, a boarding school for girls aged 7 to 13. Wow – from looking at their website I would say the pupils are very lucky to be there! The path down Shillingstone Hill doesn't look very steep at all - but it is! The path down Shillingstone Hill doesn't look very steep at all - but it is! In Shillingstone with 2 miles to Hambledon Hill The 14 mile North Dorset Trailway Network uses mainly former disused railways including here at Shillingstone Nice bridge across the River Stour Warning of a bull but no sign of him River Stour Path passes across this field at Hanford Farm Hanford Farm cows are showing a little interest but nothing more Path continues through the farmyard School is next to the farm. Girls are encouraged to take up pony riding & there are on-site ponies & stables  Beyond Hanford came the inevitable climb up the side of Hambledon Hill and then a gentler walk to the summit. It may ‘only’ be 630 feet high but what fabulous far-reaching views! It’s also one of the best preserved and most notable Iron Age hill forts in Britain.   The climb begins. Looking back from where I've come Getting closer! Trig point at the top of Hambledon Hill Friendly wild pony Pano of Hambledon Hill Hambledon Hill From Hambledon Hill the path dropped down into Iwerne (pronounced Ewan) Courtney and the end of this stage. Shroton was the original name of the village and apparently is still preferred locally. I didn’t have a minute to explore the village because having found the bus stop, my bus back to Blandford Forum turned up. This had been a really enjoyable walk and best of all, having ditched printed walking directions, I didn't get lost once! Back in Blanford, I drove to The Talbot in Iwerne Minster where I was going to spend a couple of nights. Obviously, I would have preferred to stay in a Premier Inn but the nearest one was 20 miles away! For anyone paying attention, I had a second set of overnight stuff with me in the car – the first set being in Salisbury. I chose The Talbot because Iwerne Minster is less than 2 miles from Iwerne Courtney, so making it ideal for an early start for my next stage on Saturday morning.   Path down from Hambledon Hill Lovely views to the end of the walk Iwerene Courtney in the background Iwerne Courtney Iwerne Courtney The Talbot Iwerne Minster

  • Stage 3 - Wessex Ridgeway - Beaminster to Maiden Newton - April 30th 2025

    Official Stage Statistics Route distance – 11.84 miles Total ascent – 1342 feet Total descent - 1219 feet Highest point – 791 feet Fly-through of this stage Logistics Drive from Premier Inn Seaton to Bridport & park car DT6 3LL Just Park 6313 Catch CR6 bus from Town Centre BA20 1LT to Beaminster - 07:43 – 24 mins Walk to Maiden Newton Catch train from Maiden Newton Station to Weymouth - 13:56 - 30 mins Catch X53 bus from Weymouth to Bridport – 14:27 – 1 hr 8 mins Drive to Premier Inn Yeovil Town Centre BA20 1LT & stay overnight My Walk For this walk I’d have to be down for brekkie at my home for the last 3 nights by 06:30 in order to get my car packed with all my bits and pieces and then drive the 18 miles to Bridport Bus Station car park in time to catch the 07:43 bus back to Beaminster. I’m pleased to say I made it with 5 minutes to spare. The Square Beaminster on yet another gorgeous morning The Square Beaminster on yet another gorgeous morning Most of the walking guides I’d read in the planning stages would have me walk beyond Maiden Newton to Sydling St Nicholas, an extra couple of miles. However, Sydling St Nicholas has no public transport so was not much use to me. On the other hand, Maiden Newton, despite its small size possesses a railway station with trains running in each direction, albeit only every 2 hours. It therefore seemed much more sensible to finish my walk at Maiden Newton.   As the week was progressing it was getting warmer and warmer. As with the first 2 stages, there would be nowhere along the route to top up my supply of water, so once again I was weighed down with water bottles. The walk today would follow an emerging pattern of an initial steep climb followed by a series of ascents and descents before the final descent to the finishing point. The official route begins with a steep climb to the top of Mintern’s Hill (791 ft / 241 m). It then continues across the ridge through a number of hamlets and small villages before a steady descent into Maiden Newton. I admit to cheating a little at the start and cut off 1 mile by climbing out of Beaminster along the Hardy Trail before joining the Wessex Ridgeway. It was still a very steep climb necessitating numerous stops to ‘admire the views’ as I like to call it (aka ‘catch my breath’). And we're off to Maiden Newton Wild garlic almost as plentiful as the bluebells Stopping to admire the view of Beaminster & Lewesdon Hill on the climb to the ridge. Cows playing Follow My Leader Having joined the Wessex Ridgeway I continued along a single track lane into the pretty hamlet of Toller Whelme and then on to the village of Hooke. I passed Hooke Court Residential Educational Outdoor Activity Centre - now that's a mouthful! Heading down towards Toller Whelme Lake in Toller Whelme Heading through the gate towards Hooke Inquisitive goat Hooke Court Residential Educational Outdoor Activity Centre. Building is Grade II listed 14th century mansion house Another lake Still in Hooke, this is a rather nice house at the start of the climb to Rampisham Down Beyond Hooke I walked to Rampisham Down (apparently pronounced Ransom Down by locals!) which until 2011 was home to a huge 189 acre radio transmission station for the BBC’s World Service. It had 26 transmitter pylons and 29 antenna arrays suspended between 15 masts ranging from 30m to 100m high. It must have been a sight to see and I would have loved to have seen it. Sadly, the station closed in 2011 and even worse, all but 2 of the transmitter pylons were demolished in 2017. Today 1 of these pylons transmits the TV signal to surrounding villages and the original buildings have been repurposed as Rampisham Business Centre. Looking back at Hooke The 2 remaining transmission pylons at Rampisham Down. 1 modern tower too As close as you can get to the tower Rampisham Down in 2007 © Copyright Andrew Smith Beyond Rampisham came a gentle descent into the hamlet of Lower Kingcombe followed by the inevitable steepish climb. Another gentle descent into the village of Chilfrome and from then on, the path continued in the valley of the River Frome into Maiden Newton where I ended this stage. Contented cows keeping their distance Some welcome shade from the sun for a while - Kingcombe Coppice Some welcome shade from the sun for a while - Kingcombe Coppice Kingcombe Farm, Lower Kingcombe The great views just keep on coming Chilfrome Church of the Holy Trinity Chilfrome. A listed building I want this cottage in Chilfrome! Maiden Newton is described as a town-sized village and as mentioned earlier, it has a railway station. It was 13:30 and the next train was due at 13:56, so just time to get a refreshing pint of Guinness 0.0 and a top up of one of my water bottles at the pub. I considered that my cutting off of 1 mile at the start of the walk was justified, as I would otherwise more than likely have had to wait almost 2 hours for the 15:56 train. Good decision! Amazingly, I hadn’t taken any wrong turnings today so I was really happy. River Frome in Maiden Newton Maiden Newton Maiden Newton Station The train from Maiden Newton took me to Weymouth and was timed to connect with the bus back to Bridport. It was a long bus ride but from the top deck there were some fabulous sea views. By the time I reached Bridport I was feeling quite hungry as I’d ditched having a lunchtime sandwich. I popped into Wetherspoons for an early tea. I then drove to National Trust Golden Cap for a walk to the summit. Julia Bradbury did a lot to promote it with her TV program ‘Best Walks with a View’ in 2016. I’d been there a few years ago but it was on a grey, overcast day. On this early evening in spring it was absolutely gorgeous at the top. I took loads of photos with my ‘real’ camera but somehow managed to delete them all from the SD card when I got home, along with my photos of Seaton. I was really upset to discover what I’d done. Trying various software products to recover the photos resulted in failure. I’ll just have to go back again. My last glimpse of the Jurassic Coast at Golden Cap - iPhone photo After Golden Cap I said goodbye to the Jurassic Coast and drove the 25 miles to the Yeovil Town Centre Premier Inn where I’d be staying for the next 3 nights. It was starting to get dark when I finally parked my car on and after getting up at 06:00 this had been a very long but most enjoyable day.

  • Stage 1 - Grain to Gravesend - 6th June 2024

    The England Coast Path (or rather King Charles III England Coast Path as it’s now called) section of the Thames Path is officially 47 miles in length. This section starts/ends at Grain Beach on the Isle of Grain. In 2022 and 2023 I broke the 47 miles down into 3 stages – Grain to Cliffe, Cliffe to Greenhithe and Greenhithe to Woolwich. Grain and Cliffe are relatively isolated with each served by a bus service to/from the Medway towns. These bus services make Cliffe a good place for a stop and any one of the Medway towns a good place for staying a couple of nights in a hotel. For 2024 I want to challenge myself more than in previous years and thought that I might be able to break the 47 miles into just 2 stages – Grain to Gravesend and Gravesend to Woolwich. I always had the option of stopping at Cliffe if necessary. Bearing in mind I live in Northamptonshire, in order to get a really early start for my first walk I chose to stay in the Premier Inn in Gillingham the night before. Next morning I was down for my cooked breakfast at 6:30 and was actively encouraged to take some fruit and pain au chocolat with me for a mid-morning snack – such lovely staff there. The 191 bus to Grain at this time of day stopped all over the place as it was a school service but by 8:50 I arrived at the Isle of Grain Beach and was ready to start my challenge. I’m always gobsmacked that the 5 mile wide estuary of the Thames at Grain began life 232 miles earlier as just a trickle of water in Gloucestershire. I set off on a lovely sunny morning, confident that the weather would deteriorate during the day as it has done for much of this year! Grain Beach at low tide with Southend & Shoeburyness in the distance The Isle of Grain is so called because at one time Yantlet Creek used to flow from the Thames to the Medway cutting off the land to the east from the mainland. Over time the creek silted up to such an extent that the Isle of Grain is no longer a true island. Yantlet Creek does however still fill with water from the Thames end as far as Grain, meaning that you can’t actually walk alongside the Thames from Grain Beach round to the creek and beyond as there is no crossing point. Coupled with this, much of the land on Grain to the east of the creek is off limits being a former firing range and is marked on maps as ‘Danger Area’. So, for the first 3 miles of this walk, you first walk inland and then alongside the west of Yantlet Creek before reaching the Thames. All the land to the east of Yantlet Creek is out of bounds The church in Grain Heading down to Yantlet Creek. Signs bear testament to the land ahead Grain LNG is Europe's largest importer of liquified natural gas Grain is the largest LNG storage site in Europe You have been warned! Yantlet Creek fills with water from the Thames as the tide comes in The mouth of Yantlet Creek One mile after turning left at the mouth of Yantlet Creek I reached Allhallows Holiday Park, or Haven Kent Coast as it’s called these days. This would be the last point for the next 12 miles to stock up with water as you’re totally isolated until reaching Cliffe. Needless to say you must also have a charged phone with you if you’re walking on your own. Now walking alongside the Thames towards Allhallows Haven Kent Coast Looking back towards the North Sea from Allhallows From Allhallows onwards the cranes of the London Gateway container port on the other side of the river near Corringham would dominate the skyline for most of the day but no matter how far I walked towards them they were always still miles away! The walk itself to Cliffe was uneventful. The path basically follows the river wall with a few minor detours. The land itself is marshland and salt flats. I passed 3 other people between Allhallows and Cliffe and 1 herd of cows, about par for the course. The next 12 miles are like this London Gateway container port is always there in the distance A herd of disinterested cattle. One was a bull & thankfully he was disinterested too! By about 3:30, I was finally level with the London Gateway cranes on the other side of the river and was following the river as it turned to the left towards Cliffe Fort. At this point I would normally leave the ECP and walk alongside the lakes of RSPB Cliffe into Cliffe where I would catch the bus back to Chatham. It was another 6 miles to reach the centre of Gravesend and as I wanted to challenge myself, I decided to continue. At last I'm level with the cranes DP World London Gateway port & logistics facility can accommodate some of the world's largest container ships Former explosives factory. The buildings had to be well built To continue to Gravesend I have to walk down, across & up Cliffe Creek I've now crossed Cliffe Creek looking across to where I've walked from The ECP passes through the aggregates plant at Cliffe, in fact under one of the conveyor belts. The company that owns the aggregates operation at Cliffe also owns Cliffe Fort itself. The fort is listed on the English Heritage "Heritage at Risk" register. You can see a little of the old fort from the path but you get a much better view of the scale of it from a drone. After the excitement of the aggregates plant and fort, the river and path completed a near 90 degree turn and the cranes of Tilbury port and Gravesend came into view in the distance. One of a number of aggregate facilities at Cliffe The footpath passes under this conveyor belt, even when the belt is running This is as much of Cliffe Fort as you can see without trespassing Cliffe Fort from the air. Abandoned after WWII & sold to the owners of the aggregates plant What remains of the Hans Egede - once a 3 masted vessel One of the most uninviting Thames Path gates. I suspect it's to prevent dirt bikes from getting through I'm now heading down towards Gravesend After passing what’s left of Shornemead Fort, sadly covered in graffiti these days, I was well and truly on the home run into Gravesend. By now I’d run out of water and after walking more than 20 miles today I was in need of something to drink. The Ship & Lobster pub is literally on the path. From the outside it’s not very inviting, despite having an elevated deck overlooking the sea wall. However, inside was what I call a proper old fashioned boozer and I was given a very warm welcome by the lady behind the bar. Duly refreshed I made my way into Gravesend, finishing my walk at the railway station at about 6 o’clock. That was 22.5 miles completed today and best of all I wouldn’t have to rely on going back to Cliffe on the bus. I got the train back to Gillingham and walked the short distance to the Premier Inn where I had a relaxing evening. Shornemead Fort - abandoned in the 1960s 'New' Shornemead lighthouse. The old one can be seen in the PLA's depot in Gravesend Coming into Gravesend with Tilbury Docks on the other side of the river After running out of water a couple of miles earlier I urgently needed refreshment The PLA's depot has some seriously impressive anchors & chains Small marina in Gravesend Gravesend Promenade Gravesend. Now where's the railway station?

  • Stage 6 - Wessex Ridgeway - Iwerne Courtney to Ludwell - May 10th 2025

    Official Stage Statistics Route distance – 12.87 miles Total ascent – 1665 feet Total descent - 1418 feet Highest point – 897 feet Fly-through of this stage Logistics Drive to Iwerne Courtney and park car Walk to Win Green & extend to Ludwell Catch 29 bus to Shaftesbury - 16:10 Get taxi to Iwerne Courtney - Taxi4You Mere - 07598 108317 - £25 Drive to The Talbot Iwerne Minster DT11 8QN & stay overnight - £90                              My Walk Today’s walk would start from Iwerne Courtney with a gentle climb through fields to 500 feet, pass through the most amazing display of bluebells in Ashmore Wood and continue on to Ashmore, the highest village in Dorset. Beyond Ashmore I’d be leaving Dorset and entering Wiltshire, heading for the pretty village of Tollard Royal. Beyond Tollard Royal the path would do a hairpin bend and take me to the top of Win Green, the highest point in Cranborne Chase. From Win Green I’d follow the Wessex Ridgeway down to the village of Ludwell where I’d finish this stage.   The Talbot in Iwerne Minster where I’d stayed the previous night had only been taken over by the new owners a few weeks before my stay, so I was able to forgive the very tired room. As a pub it had a great atmosphere and the locals really like the new management. Cooked breakfast was small but tasty. It also came with 1 slice of toast. When asked if I wanted tea or coffee I went for coffee. I knew from the time of booking that breakfast would be extra but when I got the bill I couldn’t believe that I was charged separately for my coffee! I’m just glad I didn’t ask for a 2 nd  cup or even some more toast!! Never as a guest in a pub or hotel have I been asked to pay extra for a hot drink at breakfast – it’s part of the deal surely. I know that I can be very curmudgeonly and did take this up with the owner who promised to review this policy. You wouldn’t have this issue in a Premier Inn but the closest one was in Poole, 20 miles away!!   Anyway, enough of all this negative stuff. Today was yet another perfect spring day for walking, without a cloud in the sky. I drove the short distance from the Talbot to Iwerne Courtney and parked my car. I walked through the village, crossed the main road into a field and began the gentle climb up Preston Hill. Every so often I looked back at the fabulous views of Hambledon Hill.   The Cricketers in Iwerne Courtney. Love the stumps, bails & ball on the door Iwerne Courtney Iwerne Courtney & Hambledon Hill What a perfect day for a walk The next few miles were relatively flat and before I knew it I’d reached Ashmore Wood. I’d been treated to many displays of bluebells so far on the Wessex Ridgeway but this was the best – absolutely gorgeous. Nice track to walk along Plenty of different spring flowers Little bit of road walking Now entering Ashmore Wood Wild garlic for starters Bluebells everywhere Bluebells everywhere Bluebell Heaven! After Ashmore Wood the path continued for another mile along a well defined track into the picture perfect village of Ashmore. At over 700 feet, the village boasts being the highest in Dorset. About ¼ mile from the village centre I came to a very important Wessex Ridgeway fingerpost, one of only a handful I encountered since leaving Lyme Regis. From looking at GPS data it looks like the fingerpost was placed bang on the Dorset – Wiltshire county boundary. Its fingerboard indicates that Lyme Regis is 62 miles (100 km). The post also has the inscription “First Opened By Priscilla Houstoun 1994”. Priscilla Houstoun was a member of the Ramblers Association who first designed the trail in the 1980s. The Dorset section was officially opened in 1994. Heading towards Ashmore Acrobatic hares doing what comes naturally! Log pile Church in Ashmore Ashmore Now heading away from Ashmore Commemorating Priscilla Houstoun on the Dorset / Wiltshire border  A couple of miles and a gentle descent further on, I entered the village of Tollard Royal, another very pretty village with a church, pond, pub, war memorial and so much more, including an old phone box named the “Tolllard Tardis”! The Tardis houses a defibrillator, book swap and local information. Outside it has a large OS map of the local area. The village is situated within Cranborne Chase. I’d hear a lot about Cranborne Chase on my walks but before I started I never really knew what it was. Taken from the official website, “Cranborne Chase is a National Landscape, a designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and covers 380 square miles of countryside, overlapping the boundaries of Wiltshire, Dorset, Hampshire and Somerset…………………….   The primary purpose of the National Landscape designation is to conserve and enhance the natural beauty of the area – now and for future generations.”  .   Tollard Royal Tollard Royal & the Tollard Tardis! Tollard Royal The path took a bit of a hairpin bend in Tollard Royal and continued in a valley called Ashcombe Bottom. Part of this section is on the 1,134 acre Ashcombe Estate which was bought by Madonna and her then husband Guy Ritchie in 2001. As part of their divorce settlement in 2008, Ritchie kept the estate and he and his family now live there. He has since carried out carried out many changes linked primarily to the high end leisure industry, so if you have very deep pockets you can stay on the estate for a shooting weekend!   The fact that the website doesn’t publish anything so vulgar as prices conjures up the old adage “If you have to ask the price you probably can’t afford it!”.   https://www.ashcombeestate.com/         Ashcombe Bottom The estate has numerous public rights of way, which explains why the Wessex Ridgeway is able to pass through the estate. It also has a 400-year-old Quaker burial ground which Quakers still have access to. At the end of the valley, the path climbed very steeply up to the highlight of the day – Win Green.   The estate is subject to public rights of way Ashmore Estate cottage The final push to the top of Win Green It was quite a steep climb Yay! Win Green. What fabulous views Win Green is the highest point in the Cranborne Chase at over 900 feet and covering 64 acres. It provides panoramic views from the Isle of Wight and Purbeck Hills to Blackmore Vale and Salisbury Plain. It’s an SSSI and is crowned by beech trees growing on a Bronze Age bowl barrow with a distinctive ridge around the edge. This clump of trees is visible for miles around. A few years ago grazing was reintroduced which has resulted in an increase in the number of flowers. Today it is managed by the National Trust. I felt so lucky to be here on such a perfect day.   Trig point at top of Win Green Beech trees can be seen for miles away Direction & distances plaque View from the top Just fabulous! Win Green is the point at which the Wessex Ridgeway meets the Cranborne Droves Way. I had 2 options to reach The Ridgeway at Overton Hill; either continue along the Wessex Ridgeway or turn right along the Cranborne Droves Way to Salisbury and then the Sarsen Way from Salisbury to Overton Hill. I’d decided from the outset of this challenge that I’d go via Salisbury, so tomorrow I’d come back here and head along the Cranborne Droves Way.   For today, my plan was to continue along the Wessex Ridgeway for a couple of miles to the main road in Ludwell where I’d be able to catch a bus to Shaftesbury and from there a taxi back to my car in Iwerne Courtney. Needless to say, I'll come back in due course to complete the whole of the Wessex Ridgeway!   The walk down from Win Green to Ludwell saw a drop in height of 500 feet and continuing panoramic views. Towards the end in Ludwell I passed a watercress farm owned by Sun Salads. The watercress grows in spring water naturally filtered through the local chalk – perfect!   On the way down now Heading towards Ludwell Ludwell Watercress Farm By the time I reached Ludwell I was very thirsty having drunk all my water. Right opposite the bus stop was a pub, The Grove Arms. On such a glorious day I was surprised that there weren’t loads of people sitting outside enjoying the sunshine. Sadly, I discovered the pub closed down in October 2024. The village shop was also closed, so I’d have to wait until I got back to Shaftesbury for liquid refreshment. Boo hoo! It's closed! My bus turned up on time and I was soon in Shaftesbury where I headed for the nearest pub for a pint! Shaftesbury is actually back in Dorset. It’s a thriving town with mainly independent shops and cafés. Gold Hill in the town was the filming location for the 1973 Ridley Scott advert for Hovis bread. It made the street famous nationally. After taking some photos of the street, I found another pub where I had my tea whilst waiting for a taxi I’d booked to take me back to my car in Iwerne Courtney. Back at my car I drove to the Talbot in Iwerne Minster for a 2 nd  night. Gold Hill in Shaftesbury What an absolutely perfect day today had been! I’d now completed 68 miles of the Great Chalk Way across some beautiful countryside. I was so glad I’d waited to begin my challenge until the bluebells were flowering. I hadn't completed the Wessex Ridgeway as a consequence of leaving at Win Green, so I'll have to return soon to walk the rest of it to Marlborough!

  • Stage 11 - Lechlade to the Source - 18th July 2024

    Lechlade The final stage of my 2024 Thames Path challenge to walk from Sea to Source in 11 stages.   This was the first time I’d walk from Lechlade to the Source in one go rather than stopping at Cricklade. For this to work I’d have to start from Swindon where I’d get a bus to Highworth (7) and another one to Lechlade (77). However, since 2024 I’ve noticed there is now a number 64 bus that goes to Lechlade without the need to change at Highworth.   Just after 9:30 I was in Lechlade and ready for the off. This was the weekend of the Royal International Air Tattoo at RAF Fairford, so for most of the morning I was treated to a free air display. It slowed me down stopping to watch the aircraft but it didn’t bother me as it was a lovely day.   Hasty descent with military aircraft heading for me! Inglesham marked the end of where I could legally fly my drone this morning St John the Baptist Church Inglesham Castle Eaton Castle Eaton This bridge at Cricklade carries utilities Cricklade I reached Cricklade 5 hours later, bought a sandwich at the Tesco store in the high street and ate it at one of the benches at the other end of the high street by the river.   Cricklade High Street Cricklade The Thames at Cricklade After a short rest I set off again on the final 12 miles of my walk to the Source. As I was walking on this warm and sunny afternoon, I couldn’t help but think back to those people who insist on walking this section in miserable winter weather. Where’s the enjoyment in this?   12 miles to go! North Meadow Cricklade One of the many lakes at Cotswold Water Park One of my favourite Thames Path fingerposts - so much character. Finally replaced in March 2026 Ashton Keynes Cricket Club Ashton Keynes Ashton Keynes Ashton Keynes Beyond Ashton Keynes Neigh Bridge Country Park - 5 miles to go! The lake at Neigh Bridge Country Park Such a lovely time of day Crystal clear River Thames Cows more interested in grass than me Ewen. In winter this gets so muddy Ewen River bed practically dry A429 road bridge at Kemble This is always dry in summer But in a wet winter it's like this - February 2026 Anyway, I reached the source at about 19:30, so 10 hours to walk 23 miles; not very quick but so what - I’d completed my challenge to walk 232 miles Sea to Source in 11 stages. This really was something to celebrate, so I walked to the Thames Head for a pint and steak & chips!   Nearly there! Made it! Vandalised fingerpost! :( It's getting a bit late now! I now had to walk to Kemble Station to catch the train back to Swindon. I’d been monitoring the train situation after the line was closed in the late afternoon due to an incident. I ended up sitting on the platform for an hour until a train finally arrived at 22:16! Back in Swindon, I next had to drive to the Premier Inn in Reading where I’d booked to stay overnight. The M4 was closed for much of the journey adding to my transport woes! What a day it had been!   Swindon Station - 22:39 All the extra walking during the day adds up! Looking back at this year’s walks, I decided that I’d never be able to better 11 stages whilst at the same time enjoy the actual walking. At the end of the day, you’ve got to enjoy the walking otherwise what’s the point.

  • Henley to Bourne End - North Bank - April 14th 2024

    Temple Bridge at Hurley is a beautiful wooden footbridge crossing the river. It was specifically built for walkers in 1989 and was one of the final pieces of the jigsaw needed to create the Thames Path National Trail. The bridge is a crossing point for walkers wishing to get from Marlow to Henley & vice versa. In May 2023 the Environment Agency closed the bridge on safety grounds, citing structural issues with its wooden structure & walkways. A detour was put in place to avoid the bridge. The detour takes you down lanes and the streets of Temple and Bisham. It adds ½ mile to the walk and part of it is along an unlit road with no pavements and a double bend for good measure. If walking to Marlow it brings you out at the Compleat Angler on the south side of the river at Marlow Bridge. There are currently a number of detours in place along the Thames Path due to bridge closures & if you’re walking from Henley to Marlow, this detour detracts from the pleasure of finishing a walk. In search of a new walk, I did some research into how I could possibly avoid this detour by maybe walking from Hambleden Lock to Marlow entirely along the north side of the river. There is a walk on the National Trails website called the Hambleden & Medmenham Circular Walk, a 5½ mile walk between the villages of Hambleden & Medmenham. About 1½ miles of this walk between Mill End and Medmenham is right by the side of the north bank of the river so this was a promising foundation of a route. From Medmenham there is a public footpath that eventually brings you out right by Temple Lock and crucially, beyond Temple Bridge. From there you follow the existing Thames Path into Marlow. On the Ordnance Survey map this looked like a solution to the Temple Bridge to Marlow detour, so I was excited to see if the theory translated into a practical and enjoyable walk. So, bright and early on a Sunday morning I got the first of what should have been 4 trains between Huntingdon & Henley. The journey is more convoluted on a Sunday but connections generally work OK. The final train is from Twyford along the single track branch line to Henley. On reaching Twyford I was most upset to discover my train to Henley was cancelled due to a fallen tree on the line. On a single track line this is a bit of a showstopper. As time was precious to me, I decided immediately I would need a cab because there are no buses on Sundays from Twyford. As luck would have it there was one at the front of the station. We agreed a fare and he drove me to Henley. I wasn’t aware until the next day that in circumstances like this GWR sometimes lays on a replacement cab service – never mind. Henley looking downstream was looking great in the sunshine; lots of rowers on the river and plenty of people taking a Sunday walk. Work was already underway in erecting stands and marquees for the Henley Regatta which this year takes place between July 2nd and 7th. The Henley Women's Regatta takes place between 21st and 23rd June. Looking downstream from Henley Stand being erected ahead of the Regatta in July Rowers in training I set off towards Hambleden Lock, my favourite Thames lock. At the lock I crossed the weir to the sound of the water crashing through the sluice gates – magnificent! I passed some people on the weir who knew the lock very well but had never walked over the weir prior to today – unforgivable!! The walkway over the weir emerges by the busy A4155 which is the main road between Reading and Bourne End. From here I turned right & walked carefully (no pavement) for about 300 yards to Ferry Lane where I turned right again. Ferry Lane is a very peaceful road with just a small handful of properties. At the end just before it took a 90 degree bend to the right I passed through a kissing gate into a meadow and turned right in the direction of the river. Hambleden Lock Turn right down Ferry Lane Continue down Ferry Lane Through the kissing gate & turn right I was fully expecting the meadow by the river bank to be like a quagmire but I was very pleasantly surprised to find it wasn’t even muddy. Gosh, I’ve struck lucky here. A couple of fellow walkers were approaching in the opposite direction and I took the opportunity to ask where they’d walked from. I was hoping they would say ‘Marlow’ to give me hope that my planned route wasn’t ridiculous. Thankfully they did say ‘Marlow’ but pointed out that a small half mile section in Medmenham was currently flooded but there was an easy way around this. Wasn’t I lucky to have met them. For the next 1½ miles I was walking right alongside the north bank of the river, getting a fresh perspective on the landscape. The most obvious ‘bonus’ view was of Culham Court. On the Thames Path you get side glimpses of it but on this side of the river you see a lot more of it. There were a number of benches alongside the river and I chose to stop at one to take a break and eat my sandwich. I was walking the left bank. Thames Path is on the right bank Culham Court from across the river You see much more of the river from this side At Medmenham, just before privately owned Medmenham Abbey I was forced to leave the river and turn left up another Ferry Lane in the direction of the village. Up until the end of the 2nd World War a ferry used to cross the river here, hence the name of the lane. Medmenham Ferry Memorial stands here and commemorates Lord Devonport's successful 1899 defence of the public right-of-way over the ferry. There are some seriously large and attractive houses in Ferry Lane. About half way up the lane, was a sign to the right for the public footpath I would be following all the way to Temple Lock. This was the turning that the couple I’d met early advised me to ignore and instead carry on up to the main road and then rejoin the path on dry land. At the main road (the A4155 again), the Hambleden & Medmenham Circular Walk turned left and I turned right. There was a narrow path for me to walk along and after about 700 yards I rejoined the public footpath heading in the direction of the river. Medmenham Ferry Memorial. Forced to turn left here Medmenham Abbey & other private houses Ferry Lane. Ignore this sign during flooding Turn right Walk along this path Turn down this track The path narrowed very considerably and I had the high fencing of Danesfield House Hotel to my left and the river to my right. At Hurley Weir there were kayakers enjoying the conditions. The narrow path took a sharp 90 degree turn left uphill and it felt reminiscent of the Hartley Steps you encounter in Hartslock Woods near Goring. The path was certainly as steep and the climb continued for longer before entering a brick tunnel with a concrete roof. The tunnel had a great echo! Heading towards the river Danesfield is the home of RAF Rowing and RAF Canoeing We're right by the river again Danesfield House Hotel & Spa is up there Kayakers at Hurley Weir Spooky tunnel! Light at the end of the tunnel! Keep going Shortly after the tunnel the signs took me to the right in the direction of Harleyford Golf Club, part of the Harleyford Estate. At the golf club I couldn’t help but notice lots of sculpted wooden animals and birds dotted around close to the clubhouse.  I read that these were all made from driftwood and stainless steel by James Doran-Webb. They were very impressive I have to say. Now entering Harleyford Golf Club Amazing sculpture from driftwood Clubhouse The Balance of Power Le Dauphin took 1500 hours to perfect I was now reaching the final mile of this new walk to Temple Lock. Between the public footpath and the river was more of the Harleyford Estate including riverside holiday homes and a marina. It looked pretty private to me, so not wishing to get told off for trespassing, I was good and stuck to the public footpath. I followed the footpath I did as I was told! Eventually, I emerged down a path I’ve noticed before that joined the Thames Path opposite Temple Mill Island on the other side of the river. My theory had worked and very successfully too. I was now on familiar ground again and headed towards Marlow for a well deserved coffee and cake. That's the Thames Path ahead! Temple Lock This is why Temple Bridge is closed Temple Bridge - April 2024 Temple Bridge - April 2024 Temple Bridge - February 2026 All Saints Church Bisham a familiar view Marlow After my break I continued to Bourne End. My aim had been to reach Maidenhead but a combination of taking in the sights of this new walk, my 3½ hour train journey back to Huntingdon and a train to Maidenhead due in 5 minutes meant that I’d done enough walking today. Hambleden Lock to the church in Marlow High Street on the north side of the river was 7.15 miles. The same walk along the Thames Path and taking the official detour through Temple, Bisham and over Marlow Bridge is 6.71 miles, so not a great deal in it. I missed the deer park at Culham Court and Hurley Lock but that’s about it. I’ll definitely be repeating this walk in the future. Hambleden Lock to Marlow - North Bank - 7.15 miles Hambleden Lock to Marlow - Thames Path & Bisham Detour - 6.71 miles

  • Stage 10 - Swinford Bridge to Lechlade - 14th July 2024

    Swinford Bridge Stage 10 of my 2024 Thames Path challenge to walk from the sea at Grain to the Source near Kemble in 11 stages. 23.76 miles today from Swinford Bridge at Eynsham to Lechlade. It’s a long walk but I’ve done it before so knew it was well within my capabilities.   I knew today would be a long day, so I’d need an early start. However, I never expected it would be as long as it turned out to be. After getting up at 5:15 and driving 65 miles to the Seacourt Park & Ride car park in Oxford, by 7:20 I was waiting at the bus stop for the E1 back to Swinford Bridge. By 7:35 I was back down by the river heading towards Newbridge.   You have to make a small detour back to the road here On the road briefly before rejoining after the boat repair yard Approaching Pinkhill Lock Pinkhill Lock Away from the river for a couple of miles you see lots of sheep More sheep Bablock Hythe. I'm guessing this was a pulling mechanism for the ferry across to the other side Certainly looks like a slipway We're now back alongside the river Northmoor Lock. Probably the most remote lock on the river Northmoor Lock Northmoor Lock Northmoor Lock Beyond Northmoor By 10:30 I was sitting by the river at The Rose Revived with a coffee for my first break of the day. Considering the number of times I’d stopped to take pictures with my drone, I’d made really good progress. Newbridge Mid-morning coffee at the Rose Revived Beyond Newbridge, I didn't desperately enjoy Chimney Meadows this year as the path was quite overgrown in places & uneven.   Shifford Lock Cut The cut rejoins the original navigation Duxford Old River incorporates the old Thames navigation Path was very overgrown this summer I reached Tadpole Bridge at 13:00. By then I’d completed 13½ miles so was still doing well. I stopped off at The Trout for a pint and surreptitiously ate my shop-bought sandwich in the beer garden. After a half hour break I carried on towards Lechlade. Tadpole Bridge Lunch break! Progress in the afternoon wasn’t as fast as it had been in the morning but I wasn't too fussed as I was enjoying my walk. Rushey Lock The topiary frog at Rushey Lock in need of a good hair cut! The snaking river Radcot Lock Odd looking sheep Approaching Radcot Bridge. This bridge always seems quite rickety The campsite at Radcot Bridge Radcot Bridge Grafton Lock Grafton Lock The topiary cat at Grafton Lock watches over the resident swan Jeremy's partner's nest The topiary cat at Grafton Continuing towards Buscot Buscot Lock Buscot Lock St John's Lock - the last (or first) lock on the Thames Old Father Thames at St John's Lock was moved here in 1974 after being vandalised at the Source By 18:00 I reached Lechlade. Then the fun started. My plan for getting back to my car in Oxford had always been to get a taxi to Faringdon from where I’d catch the S6 bus into the city. All being well, I’d be back home in front of the telly for the start of the Euro 2024 final. Unlike Lechlade which has no buses on a Sunday, the S6 from Faringdon runs at 30 minute intervals for much of the day, reducing to hourly after 18:15. I’d used this method on a number of previous occasions, so saw no reason why today should be any different.     Final ½ mile from St John's Lock to Lechlade Made it - Halfpenny Bridge at Lechlade The thing is, today was different from previous occasions. Today was the final of the UEFA Euro 2024 competition between England and Spain. Today was also the final day of FollyFest 2024 in Faringdon. FollyFest is the town’s annual music and community arts festival which takes place in the market place.   I began phoning for taxis. I had a couple of numbers in my phone of firms I’d used before. No answer! I then did a google search and tried a few more different numbers. Again, no answer. I finally widened my google search further and tried a couple more numbers. No answer! I assumed that taxi drivers were putting watching the football on telly ahead of earning some money from a fare, plus it was a Sunday.   Lechlade Market Place Nothing for it but to carry on to Faringdon I made up my mind there was nothing else for it but to walk the 6½ miles along the A417 to Faringdon. This road is normally quite busy but thankfully tonight it was quiet (people staying in to watch the football maybe?), so I could walk on the road most of the way rather than the hit-and-miss grass verges. I could see from the timetable that there would be a bus at 20:14. Goodness knows where I got the energy from but by 20:00 I reached Faringdon. Made it! 3.4 mph I walked to the bus stop in the market place. It had a notice on it saying that due to FollyFest, buses were going to be rerouted from the town centre until 18:00. Fine I thought. That means the 20:14 bus will stop here. Needless to say, the bus didn’t turn up. The next one was due at 21:14 but I wasn’t going to risk waiting here for it, so I walked to the stop where I knew the diverted buses would stop. Thankfully the bus turned up on time!   The bus got me back to Seacourt P&R just before 22:00. I was tired, hungry and had missed the football – which was no big deal in the end as we lost. There’s a McDonalds opposite the P&R so I bought a meal from there – never has a McDonalds tasted so good! I then drove home, arriving back just before midnight. Looking at my FitBit stats for today, I’d walked further than I’ve ever walked before in one day – more than 32 miles. I could afford a day off tomorrow! A new FitBit badge to boot!

© 2026 John Tippetts
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