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  • Other Walks | Great Chalk Way

    The Great Chalk Way is a 360+ mile coast to coast trail starting from Lyme Regis to Holme-next-the-Sea. It incorporates 4 established long distance paths - Wessex Ridgeway, The Ridgeway National Trail, Icknield Way Path & Peddars Way National Trail. There is an alternative route from Win Green in Wiltshire to Overton Hill on the A4 near Avebury. This alternative route incorporates 2 long distance paths - Cranborne Droves Way from Win Green to Salisbury & Sarsen Way from Salisbury to Overton Hill The Great Chalk Way The Great Chalk Way The Great Chalk Way (GCW) is a family of established walking and riding routes linking the Dorset and Norfolk Coasts across central southern England following an ancient trading route along chalk ridges. It forms a coast to coast route of getting on for 400 miles. The six trails that comprise the GCW are - Wessex Ridgeway Cranborne Droves Way Sarsen Way The Ridgeway Icknield Way Peddars Way The GCW starts at Lyme Regis in Dorset and finishes at Holme-next-the-Sea in Norfolk. It's also referred to as the 'Greater Ridgeway' and the 'Icknield Way'. It was officially launched by the Friends of the Ridgeway in conjunction with the Icknield Way Association as the 'Great Chalk Way' in October 2024, although the idea of it was first mooted back in 2007. Taken as one trail it is England's 5th longest trail. The Friends of the Ridgeway is a voluntary organisation set up in 1983 with a primary aim to preserve and maintain the special nature of The Ridgeway National Trail, mainly in response to its abuse west of the Thames by off-road vehicles. In 2009 the Friends of the Ridgeway’s constitution was changed to apply its principal objective to any extension of the ancient Ridgeway trackways along the chalk downs of southern England. As a result, the Friends of the Ridgeway was determined to create a coast to coast trail from the Dorset Coast to The Wash. It was decided to name the new trail the Great Chalk Way. As each component trail already had its own distinctive waymarker, there was no need to create one for the route as a whole. However, to promote the GCW and advertise its existence to the walking public, it was agreed that information boards should be placed at the start and finish of each component trail, showing the route of the GCW and giving pictorial and factual information about it. Sadly, the Friends of the Ridgeway was not able to get permission from Norfolk Council to install one at Holme-next-the-Sea. Similarly, at Win Green the National Trust would not allow a board. As of September 2025 there are 7 GCW information boards along the route I took as my photos below show (there is another one at Wardour Castle on that part of the Wessex Ridgeway I didn't walk and in July 2025, after I'd walked this section, another one was placed at Okeford Hill). I find it particularly upsetting that there isn't one at Holme-next-the-Sea because if you've walked getting on for 400 miles along England's 5th longest trail, there is nothing there to suggest what you've actually achieved; maybe one day, even if the board has to be erected at Hunstanton which is normally regarded as the final destination, being the nearest transportation hub? As a personal challenge for 2025 I planned to walk the entire trail, setting off from Lyme Regis at the end of April 2025. Living in Northamptonshire and staying overnight in pubs and hotels, I would initially do a week at a time before coming home for a few days. All being well I'd complete my challenge before the end of summer. The distance wouldn't daunt me but as the area covered by the Wessex Ridgeway in particular is quite remote in places, I'd really have to get my planning right. Thankfully, I really enjoy sorting out logistics for trails like the GCW! Looking at the very high-level map of the trail you’ll see that the Wessex Ridgeway (in light blue) meets The Ridgeway (in dark blue) near the World Heritage Site of Avebury in Wiltshire. However, there is an alternative route that peels off to the right at Win Green, continues to Salisbury on the Cranborne Droves Way (in yellow) and then continues towards Avebury on the Sarsen Way (in orange). It’s clear just by looking at the map that this alternative route is shorter than just continuing on the Wessex Ridgeway; it also looks more interesting to me as it takes in the city of Salisbury as well as passing close to Stonehenge. For these reasons I chose to walk the alternative route via Salisbury. In fact, the Cranborne Droves Way and Sarsen Way were created in order to make a more authentic upland route along chalk ridges, to and through Salisbury than the northern section of the Wessex Ridgeway offers. However, for the sake of completeness I decided that at some point in the future I would have to walk the rest of the Wessex Ridgeway from Win Green to Avebury and on to its finish in Marlborough. I will resume this trail at the end of April 2026! The Trails The images and videos in my blogs are best viewed on desktop, laptop or tablet. Wessex Ridgeway Lyme Regis to Win Green 63 miles Read More Sarsen Way Salisbury to Overton Hill 34.5 miles Read More Icknield Way Path Ivinghoe Beacon to Knettishall Heath 110 miles Read More Cranborne Droves Way Win Green to Salisbury 16.5 miles Read More The Ridgeway Overton Hill to Ivinghoe Beacon 87 miles Read More Peddars Way Knettishall Heath to Holme-next-the-Sea 46 miles Read More Facts & Figures I completed the GCW in 27 stages between the end of April 2025 and early September 2025 with June and July spent walking my beloved Thames Path Official distance - source OS Maps - 362 miles Total ascent - 28244 feet Total descent - 28237 feet Highest point - 910 feet Longest stage - 23 miles - Peddars Way - Castle Acre to Hunstanton via Holme-next-the-Sea Favourite stage - A tie between the Sarsen Way from Upavon to Overton Hill (to include Avebury) and The Ridgeway from Princes Risborough to Ivinghoe Beacon During the course of the walk I passed through 11 counties - Dorset, Wiltshire, Berkshire, Oxfordshire, Buckinghamshire, Bedfordshire, Hertfordshire, Essex, Cambridgeshire, Suffolk and Norfolk Hillforts passed - at least 15! Barrows passed - loads! Rain - not one drop! Total expenditure including hotels, food, drink, buses, trains, car parks and petrol - about £3000. Sounds a lot but I love my home comforts too much and don't do camping. I had to spend a number of additional nights to get myself in place ready for early morning starts. If you look at it as a 1 month all-inclusive holiday in the UK in the most glorious weather, I hope you'll agree it was great value for money Cooked breakfasts - at least 20 I'm ashamed to admit - but I was on holiday! Enjoyment - priceless!

  • Sarsen Way - part of the Great Chalk Way

    The Sarsen Way is a long distance path officially created in 2020 by the Friends of the Ridgeway. This 49 mile path was developed to link two major ancient sites in Wiltshire – Stonehenge and Avebury. It incorporates parts of other paths including The Ridgeway, the White Horse Trail and the Pewsey Avon Trail. The path begins at Salisbury Cathedral and ends at Coate Water Country Park in Swindon. It is 1 of the 6 constituent trails comprising the Great Chalk Way AKA the Greater Ridgeway Sarsen Way Sarsen Way The Sarsen Way was officially created in 2020 by the Friends of the Ridgeway. At 49 miles (79 km) this long-distance path was developed to link two major ancient sites in Wiltshire – Stonehenge and Avebury. It incorporates parts of other paths including the Ridgeway, the White Horse Trail and in particular, the Pewsey Avon Trail; there’s a lot of ‘code sharing’ going on here as with airline flights! Both the Sarsen Way and the Cranborne Droves Way were also developed in order to provide a more authentic upland route along chalk ridges than the northern section of the Wessex Ridgeway could offer, to and through Salisbury towards Avebury. The path begins at Salisbury Cathedral and ends at Coate Water Country Park in Swindon. From Salisbury the path follows the River Avon valley, touches the edge of Salisbury Plain, meets and follows the Kennet and Avon Canal for a while and crosses the Vale of Pewsey before reaching the Ridgeway at Overton Hill. From there it follows the Ridgeway to Barbury Castle before the final 8 miles to Coate Water Country Park. Whilst the Sarsen Way doesn’t actually pass Stonehenge or Avebury, there are short, optional loops to visit these UNESCO World Heritage Sites. These loops add about 4 miles in total to the length of the path. Along the path itself there is more evidence of ancient history including Old Sarum, Casterley Camp, Adam’s Grave and Wansdyke. The route of the Sarsen Way is mainly across open, rolling downland under wide skies. Some of the northern part lies within the North Wessex Downs AONB. Most of the AONB is farmland. Over half of this area is cropped and some is grazed, the rest is mostly woodland and set aside land. The Sarsen Way name is derived from the large sarsen stones that are found in circles at both World Heritage sites. The path is waymarked with its name and 3 sarsen stones on brown circular discs. As mentioned above, the Sarsen Way ‘code shares’ with a number of other trails. For the purposes of these blogs, I decided to treat the Sarsen Way as starting at Salisbury Cathedral and ending at Avebury, where the Ridgeway takes over – a distance of about 36 miles. With respect to logistics for the Sarsen Way, these were very easy because of the excellent bus services along the route between Salisbury and Avebury. I decided to break the 36 miles up into 3 stages – Salisbury to Amesbury Amesbury to Upavon Upavon to Avebury The stage numbers to the end of the Peddars Way aren't the stage numbers of the individual trail but of the entire Great Chalk Way; hence Salisbury to Amesbury is stage 8 not stage 1 and my final walk from Castle Acre to Hunstanton will be stage 27. Also, apologies if some of my stories unwittingly make assumptions that the reader has been with me since I set off in April from the start of the Great Chalk Way in Lyme Regis. Stage 8 - Sarsen Way - Salisbury to Amesbury - May 8th 2025 Old Sarum. River Avon Stage 9 - Sarsen Way - Amesbury to Upavon - May 16th 2025 River Avon. Salisbury Plain. Stonehenge Stage 10 - Sarsen Way - Upavon to Overton Hill - May 17th 2025 The stage that has everything - river, canal, cygnets, quaint villages, climbs, gorgeous landscapes, a chalk horse and history by the bucketload!

  • Barnes Bridge to Teddington - North Bank | My Thames Walks 2020

    My 2020 walk along the north bank of the Thames Path National Trail between Barnes Bridge & Teddington Lock Barnes Bridge to Teddington Lock – North Bank - August 4th 2020 The Route This walk follows the Thames Path along the north bank of the river from Barnes Bridge to Teddington Lock. The route passes through Strand on the Green, Brentford, Syon Park, Isleworth, Richmond, Twickenham and Strawberry Hill, before ending at Teddington Lock. This section is meant to be about 12 miles. My Walk This was the 2nd of the 3 walks I did along the north bank of the Thames in London. I was a little apprehensive about this, as it would be the first time I’d need to use public transport in London since before lockdown started in March. Still, knowing that so many commuters were still working from home and that overall public transport usage was way down, I reasoned I should be quite safe – and so I was! To get to the start at Barnes Bridge I got the train to Kings Cross, Victoria Line to Vauxhall, then train to Barnes Bridge station. As I crossed Barnes Bridge to the north bank I couldn’t help but notice how low the water level was, demonstrating quite clearly that the river was still tidal at this point. For much of this walk as far as Richmond, where the sluice gates across the river are only lowered for around 2 hours either side of high tide, the water levels would be extremely low. Anyway, the Thames Path needed to be well signposted from Barnes Bridge, since it initially continued directly inland away from the river, before turning left under a railway bridge and left again back towards the river. Thankfully there were plenty of signs and I was soon on the towpath with trees and hedges on both sides. On the south bank were attractive houses and apartment blocks of Barnes and Mortlake. These gave way to the former Mortlake Brewery, most recently owned by Anheuser Busch InBev to brew Budweiser. Brewing ceased in 2015 and the site was sold (surprise, surprise) to a property development company, who now have planning permission to regenerate as a 22 acre riverfront village. Chiswick Bridge, the end point of the University Boat Race, came up next, followed by Chiswick Quay. Chiswick Quay is a small estate of 68 town houses surrounding a marina on the river. Every house overlooks either the marina or the river. Lock gates provide access to the Thames. At Chiswick Quay, the path left the riverside and took to residential streets of Chiswick for about half a mile. It rejoined the river just before Kew Railway Bridge at the very pretty riverside area of Chiswick called Strand-on-the-Green. Between here and Kew Bridge, the path continued on a pedestrian walkway, also named Strand-on-the-Green, that eventually widened to become a road. In the middle of the river was a tree covered island called Oliver’s Island, so called from a story that Oliver Cromwell once took refuge on it; however, there is almost certainly no truth in this story. At Kew Bridge I left the path briefly to buy a sandwich for my lunch. Returning to the riverside, I passed a long uninhabited island named Brentford Ait in the middle of the river, followed immediately by a smaller one named Lot’s Ait. In 2011, a 30 year lease of Lot’s Ait was granted to a local boat builder. In 2012, a new pedestrian bridge connecting the island with Brentford was built. Because the river was at low tide at the time of my walk, there was virtually no water between the river bank and the 2 islands and quite frankly, it all looked quite scruffy with numerous beached vessels. After the islands, I reached the point where the River Brent (part of the Grand Union Canal network) joins the Thames and this is where the path left the riverside for about 1.5 miles. A major redevelopment of about 12 acres of land between the river and Brentford High Street was the main reason for leaving the river. The Brentford Project as it’s called, will be a mixture of apartments, shops, cafes and restaurants. The developer has promised extensions to the Thames Path along the riverside. The development is due for completion in 2027. Walking along Brentford High Street I eventually reached a friendly Thames Path sign directing me towards Syon Park. Syon Park is a 200 acre park owned by the Duke of Northumberland. Syon House within the park is the Duke’s London residence. I would have liked to explore further but at the time of my walk, the house, gardens and Great Conservatory were all shut to visitors due to COVID-19. All I could do was carry on through the park until I emerged by the river once again in Old Isleworth. Another island, named Isleworth Ait filled the middle of the river. This island is uninhabited but is home to plenty of wildlife. Visitor access is granted to local volunteers of the London Wildlife Trust. Much of the path for the next mile was paved, with modern apartment blocks to my right and the dry river to my left. It then entered some pleasant gardens, before returning briefly to the main road. Back by the riverside once again, the paved path continued to Richmond Lock and its very grand bridge that houses the mechanism for raising and lowering the sluice gates, as well as being a pair of footbridges. The purpose of the lock is to maintain a broad navigable depth of water upstream of Richmond of at least 5ft 8 in. The sluice gates are lowered for 2 hours each side of high tide, allowing free passage. At all other times, vessels have to use the lock, for which there is a charge. Even before I reached the lock, the level of the river now reached both banks, making it much more attractive. After the lock, Twickenham Bridge, Richmond Railway Bridge and Richmond Bridge itself came up in quick succession. From Richmond Bridge the river took a noticeable right bend. The path was wide and tarmacked and a lot of people were out enjoying the sunshine and the river. There were lovely views across the river to Petersham Common, the Petersham Hotel and the landmark Star and Garter building. The path entered Marble Hill Park, a lovely Grade II listed 66 acre park managed by English Heritage. It provides many leisure facilities including rugby and hockey pitches, a cricket pitch and nets, tennis courts and a children's play area. The centrepiece of the park is Marble Hill House. The house is a Palladian villa built between 1724 and 1729 and was the home of Henrietta Howard, Countess of Suffolk, who was also the mistress of George II. At the time of my walk, the house was closed as it is undergoing renovation. The house is clearly visible from the south bank of the river. I next came to the ferry that crosses the river to and from Ham House. Hammerton’s Ferry proudly boasts that it’s the last remaining privately owned foot ferry on the tidal Thames. The path left the river briefly, continuing along an appropriately named residential street called Riverside. You’d need a lot of money to buy one of the very attractive houses in this area! The path rejoined the riverside opposite a boatyard on Eel Pie Island. Eel Pie Island is a 9 acre island accessible by boat or footbridge from the north bank. The island had a hotel that was a major venue for jazz, rock and R&B music up until 1969. Artists including Acker Bilk, George Melly, the Rolling Stones, Pink Floyd, Rod Stewart, the Who, Black Sabbath and Genesis played there. The name comes from eel pies which were served by the inn on the island in the 19th century. Today, the island has about 50 homes, 120 inhabitants and two or three boatyards, as well as some other small businesses and artists' studios. It has nature reserves at both ends, protected from public access. Shortly after passing the footbridge, the path left the river and I found myself in busy Twickenham. For the next mile, the path continued on the main road to Teddington through a residential area called Strawberry Hill. Eventually the path took a left turning down to Teddington Lock, the end of my walk as well as the Thames Path north bank route. At the lock, there are 2 distinctive footbridges across the river, separated by a small island in the middle of the river; one is an attractive suspension bridge crossing the weir stream, whilst the other is a less attractive girder bridge that spans the lock cut. Both bridges are Grade II listed. Teddington Lock is the furthest point upstream at which the river is no longer tidal. The Anglers is a riverside pub at the lock. As our generous Chancellor was encouraging us all to eat out in August, I decided to take him up on his offer and have a half price meal and a pint of London Pride. Duly refreshed I followed the thoughtful Thames Path signs directing me to Teddington Station. On the journey back home I couldn’t help but think that apart from the 2 mile section between Richmond and Eel Pie Island, this hadn’t been a desperately interesting or enjoyable walk. Gallery London Bridge to Barnes

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  • Stage 2 - Wessex Ridgeway - Thorncombe to Beaminster - April 29th 2025

    Official Stage Statistics Route distance – 9.53 miles Total ascent – 1520 feet Total descent - 1833 feet Highest point – 897 feet Fly-through of this stage Logistics Drive to Axminster from Premier Inn Seaton & park car EX13 5NX RingGo 42923 Taxi to Thorncombe – Av2Go Taxis 07398 421042 Walk to Beaminster Catch bus CB3 from Red Lion to Bridport Bus Station at 15:49 - 17 minutes Catch bus X53 from Bridport Bus Station to Axminster at 16:08 - 55 minutes Drive to Premier Inn Seaton EX12 2NA & stay overnight   Christian, the taxi driver from the day before who brought me back from Thorncombe to Axminster arranged for Peter of Av2Go Taxis to take me back there at 08:00 from Axminster Station. My Walk On today’s walk I would climb to the top of Dorset’s 2 highest hills and like yesterday I’d have fabulous views of the Dorset countryside all day. My aim for today was to not miss a turn from the printed instructions but this wasn't to be! Like yesterday, I knew that there would be no stopping points along today’s walk for food or water, so I’d have to load up with plenty of water and for my lunch I’d have to make do with a banana and pains au chocolat taken from the Premier Inn at breakfast time. I also remembered my drone today, so that and its controller and spare batteries added to the weight on my back. My taxi turned up at Axminster Station more or less on time and by 08:30 I was back in sunny Thorncombe and heading off towards Synderford. After a steady drop, the trail did a fairly steep and rapid climb of 350 feet up Venn Hill to emerge onto Blackdown Hill (705 ft / 215 m). This was today’s first ‘Wow!’ moment. What fabulous views again as I walked across the ridge towards Pilsdon Pen in the distance. The village shop in Thorncombe. Could really have done with it being open at the end of yesterday's walk Another glorious day in the Dorset countryside Looking back towards Thorncombe First climb of the day brings me onto Blackdown Hill with Pilsdon Pen in the distance Blackdown Hill with Thorncombe in the background From the air you definitely see you're walking along a ridge I walked through a field with cows in it. Signage was a bit sketchy so I don’t know whether or not I should have walked across it and the written instructions weren’t much help but it was certainly in the right direction. Anyway, the cows were very inquisitive and started following me, getting quite close. Although I’ve never been hit by a cow, I was slightly relieved to reach the gate and pass through it unscathed. Half an hour later I reached the trig point at the top of Pilsdon Pen. Friendly cows Don't they have a lovely field I'm off course at the top of Pilsdon Pen Pilsdon Pen is officially the 2nd highest point in Dorset at 909 ft / 277 m. It was bequeathed to the National Trust in 1982. For many years it was thought to be the highest point but a modern survey revealed that Lewesdon Hill had it at 915 ft / 279 m. I’d be passing Lewesdon Hill later in the day. The top of Pilsdon Pen was the site of an Iron Age hillfort. The 360° views were absolutely spectacular and I spent quite some time taking everything in. I naturally assumed that the trail continued across the top of the hill and then down towards Lewesdon Hill so didn’t bother referring to the written instructions. Of course I was wrong, as the trail doesn’t actually even reach the summit but how ridiculous that it doesn’t! After descending the hill I soon discovered I was quite a way off course again and had to go ‘off piste’ to get back to where I should be. It’s no wonder my walks are always longer than they should be. I really should look more closely at the OS maps before setting off. You get a good idea of the size of the Iron Age hillfort - April 2026 That's Lewesdon Hill covered in trees behind me What a fantastic position Pilsdon Pen has - April 2026 Descending down the incorrect path It's quite a steep descent Back on course, my next target was Lewesdon Hill. Although Lewesdon is only 6 ft higher than Pilsdon, there was a 450 ft descent before the climb up Lewesdon Hill. Once again I assumed the Wessex Ridgeway would take me to the summit but once again I was wrong; it actually skirts around the hill. Anyway, I was quite happy being wrong because the path I took was in beech and oak woodland that provided welcome shade from the warm sun. Eventually I reached a National Trust sign with a map of the hill showing me where I was and how off course I was – again! The map brought home to me that the actual summit was so surrounded by trees that any views would have to be through trees, so I didn’t bother climbing to the very top; instead I got myself back on course once again. Back on course At the bottom of the final push to the top of Lewesdon Hill - but off course! Descending and emerging from the woodland, the last 3 miles of this walk were through fields, many of which had either sheep or cows grazing. So many lovely views; I really enjoyed this part of the walk. In the distance I could see a clump of trees on top of a hill overlooking Beaminster. The path took me up this hill – called Gerrard’s Hill. At 571 ft / 174 m there were spectacular views from the top. Lovely woods Nice views from the side of Lewesdon Hill On the right is a memorial to Jean Verdun Marie Aime De Cloedt, a Belgian pilot who died in a Spitfire crash on the hill in 1942 A bit of clambering was needed here Final climb today to the top of Gerrard's Hill Trigpoint on Gerrard's Hill View from Gerrard's Hill Beaminster from Gerrard's Hill A very steep descent from Gerrard’s Hill brought me into the really attractive town of Beaminster. It was about 3 o’clock and I was hot and thirsty. Like the first stage there had been no shops or pubs along the walk. There were 2 pubs in The Square in the centre of town but unbelievably they were both closed! Google Maps showed a hotel called The Olerod about 150 yards away. Thankfully the bar was open. My bus was due at 15:49 from The Square so I had time for a pint and a packet of crisps in the hotel’s lovely garden. I took the opportunity to ask the lady behind the bar how I should pronounce ‘Beaminster’. She told me that locals pronounce it ‘Behminster’ as in ‘Bay window’! This is steeper than it looks Glad I didn't have to climb! Happy donkeys Beaminster Beaminster The Square in Beaminster Both pubs closed! Olerod Hotel Cold pint of Guinness 0.0 whilst waiting for my bus The CB3 bus turned up on time and took me to Bridport Bus Station where I caught the interconnecting X53 bus back to Axminster – perfect! Back in Axminster I collected my car and drove back to the Seaton Premier Inn. Despite going off course a number of times yet again this had been another brilliant walk with the logistics working a treat. The instructions I'd been following the last 2 days assumed my 2 walks would be done in just 1 day. I'm well used to walking 20+ mile walks on flat terrain but I'm too old and unfit to walk this kind of distance on hilly terrain. In any case, I want to take my time and really enjoy this part of our beautiful country. This was my last night in Seaton; tomorrow I’d be moving to the Premier Inn in Yeovil for a few days.

  • Stage 1 - Wessex Ridgeway - Lyme Regis to Thorncombe - April 28th 2025

    Official Stage Statistics Route distance – 11.12 miles Total ascent – 2016 feet Total descent - 1532 feet Highest point – 845 feet Fly-through of this stage Logistics Drive to Premier Inn Seaton EX12 2NA & stay overnight (Sunday) Drive to Axminster & park car EX13 5NX RingGo 42923 Catch X51/X53 Jurassic Coaster bus to Lyme Regis - 08:13 then hourly - 27 minutes Walk to Thorncombe Taxi back to Axminster & pick up car – M Cabs 01297 442222 Drive to Premier Inn Seaton EX12 2NA & stay overnight   Thorncombe is not blessed with buses to get me back to my car; therefore, I would need to get a taxi. The reason I chose to park in Axminster for the day rather than Lyme Regis was down to the cost of taxis. It was much cheaper to get a taxi to Axminster than it would have been to get one back to Lyme Regis and I can be mean when it suits! My Walk I knew that between Lyme Regis and Thorncombe there would be no shops or pubs to buy water or food. Bearing in mind the weather forecast for the day which was warm and sunny I made sure I was loaded with 2 large bottles of water. At breakfast I’d helped myself to a couple of pains au chocolat and a banana to eat for lunch. My backpack was also loaded with my drone controller and spare batteries as I knew there would be some great aerial photo opportunities. Number one schoolboy error of the day was that I discovered that I’d left the actual drone at the hotel; so, I’d be carrying a load of pointless excess weight all day. I had at least remembered my camera so wouldn’t have to rely on my phone. Paddling in the English Channel at Lyme Regis. Next paddle 360 miles away in The Wash The trail starts from the harbour in Lyme Regis known as The Cobb The first of a number of new information boards for the Great Chalk Way. This one on the Lyme Regis sea front Anyway, just after 09:00 I set off from sunny Lyme Regis on the start of my 2025 walking challenge. Clutching the 13 pages of detailed walking instructions, spirits were high as I walked along the River Lim within the town. Worryingly I soon discovered that the instructions were brilliant just as long as you followed each step to the letter and never took your eyes off them! The way that they were written meant that you miss one step and you were b***ered! It would then be necessary to refer to the OS Maps app. This is where I immediately started to miss the signage that National Trails benefit from. Constantly relying on the instructions, looking out for Wessex Ridgeway waymarkers and referring to the OS Maps app would lead to so many wrong turnings being taken all week.   Lyme Regis Colourful Lyme Regis The path gave way to a wood known as Hole Common which was full of bluebells. I would very quickly become bluebell blasé. I deliberately chose to start my challenge at the end of April because I wanted bluebells and I certainly wasn’t disappointed. It was a little disconcerting to cross paths with a dog walker who was wearing wellies and the path through the woods was pretty muddy in places resulting in mud up over my ankles. I emerged triumphantly from Hole Common at the side of the busy A35 at Penn. My instructions told me to cross the road and admire the fabulous view. It’s fair to say that it really was a fabulous view of green fields, trees, hedges and hills for as far as the eye could see; the first ‘Wow!’ moment of the day. Bridge over the River Lim One of the very few fingerposts mentioning Wessex Ridgeway Hole Common The 1st climb of today up to the A35 The view from Penn View from Penn A couple of miles further on and I took the first wrong turning of the day. As mentioned earlier I didn’t want to spend my whole time looking at the printed instructions or my phone. At a junction where I could turn either left or right, in the absence of a Wessex Ridgeway waymarker (or indeed any other trail's waymarker) I took a bad decision to turn right up a really steep hill.  Lovely views from the top of the hill but then I had to come all the way down again. Back on track I reached the village of Wootton Fitzpaine, one of the lowest places on this stage. Colourful climb up the WRONG steep hill! Very pretty but I'm up the wrong hill That's better. Now I'm in Wootton Fitzpaine where I should be The Shed Shop sells farm goods on trust. Joints of lamb in the freezer Now I started the long climb up towards Coney’s Castle, site of a small Iron Age hill fort. There were fabulous 360 degree views all the way up to the fort which at 730 feet high is listed as the 19th highest hill in Dorset. The National Trust now looks after Coney’s Castle which at this time of year is carpeted with bluebells.  The fort is bisected by a small lane that leads to Lambert’s Castle Hill. A bench by the roadside overlooking the countryside provided a perfect spot for me to take a break and eat my banana & pains au chocolat I’d taken from the Premier Inn. I'm now climbing the correct hill I'm definitely correct this time Looking down at Wootton Fitzpaine Great views all the way up to Coney's Castle Just fabulous I've reached Coney's Castle Coney's Castle bluebells Coney's Castle bluebells Bluebell heaven at Coney's Castle A bench with a view............. ...........and what a view it is! Duly refreshed I continued along the lane with another steep climb up to Lambert’s Castle Hill. At 850 feet it’s listed as the 9th highest hill in Dorset. The hill is topped by an Iron Age hill fort, Lambert’s Castle that is around 2,500 years old. The hilltop was used as a racecourse at some stage and was also the site of a fair for over 200 years. Once again there were fabulous far-reaching views. I really wished I’d had my drone with me! This was definitely the high spot of the walk. However, to rectify matters, I returned in April 2026 armed with my drone and so glad I did! Next climb is up to Lambert's Castle Tomorrow's walk will be to Pilsdon Pen & Lewesdon Hill in the distance Lambert's Castle Hill - drone view April 2026 I can see for miles - drone view April 2026 Drone's view from Lambert's Castle Hill towards Coney's Castle beyond the pylon & Lyme Bay - April 2026 Trig Post at Lambert's Castle Hill - 846 ft / 258 m For the next couple of miles after Lambert’s Castle there was a relatively steep drop followed by a gentler climb through woods and trees before the path dropped once again into Thorncombe where I chose to end this stage. On our way down now. The 'Wow!'s have peaked quite literally for now On the way down Hawkmoor Hill Some really handsome chickens Thorncombe with a 3 in 1 trails fingerboard Thorncombe Thorncombe is a really pretty village but it has a rubbish phone signal. I had to walk a hundred yards up the road to get a signal to phone for a taxi to pick me up and take me back to my car in Axminster. £23 was very reasonable I thought for a 9 mile journey. As he was driving back my driver arranged for another firm to bring me back the following morning. So, stage 1 completed and the logistics had worked perfectly! As for my skills in following written walking instructions, there was certainly room for improvement. Hopefully I'd do better tomorrow.

  • Stage 4 - Wessex Ridgeway - Maiden Newton to Lower Ansty - May 1st 2025

    Official Stage Statistics Route distance – 15.66 miles Total ascent – 2180 feet Total descent - 2087 feet Highest point – 860 feet Fly-through of this stage Logistics Drive to Yeovil Pen Mill station BA21 5DD - 0.7 mile & park car APCOA Location ID 2204                                           Catch train to Maiden Newton 07:33 - 22 mins                                               Walk to Lower Ansty                                                  Get taxi to Blandford Forum - Oakwood Taxis - https://blandford-oakwoodtaxis.co.uk/   - 01258 455555                                                      Catch CR4 bus to Yeovil Pen Mill station BA21 5DD at 17:40 – 98 mins Drive to Premier Inn Yeovil Town Centre BA20 1LT & stay overnight                                            My Walk Today’s walk would almost certainly be the toughest of the whole Great Chalk Way, being almost 16 miles with a total ascent of 2180 feet and 5 steep climbs. I would definitely be paying for having had an easy walk yesterday. The weather forecast for today was unsurprisingly more sunshine with a maximum temperature of 27°C – which ordinarily would be really nice if you’re not on a long walk with numerous climbs. Between start and finish, once again there would be no shops or pubs along the route without making a combined detour of at least 2 miles. As things panned out during the day I really wish I’d decided before I set off to detour to Cerne Abbas for a lunchtime break at 1 of its 3 – yes 3 – pubs!   Whilst mentioning Cerne Abbas, it is famous for the Cerne Giant, an ancient naked figure sculpted into the chalk hillside above Cerne Abbas. The Giant is without doubt a man!! At 180 ft tall he is Britain’s largest chalk hill figure and perhaps the best known. Archaeologists believe the Giant was possibly first constructed in the late Saxon period which ended in 1066 but really, it’s a bit of a mystery - Cerne Giant   The Wessex Ridgeway doesn’t actually go past the Giant; however, it does pass within a mile on the same ridge. On my drive down to Lyme Regis a few days earlier to start the Great Chalk Way, I stopped off at the visitor car park to get some drone footage of the Cerne Giant.  The Cerne Giant The Wessex Ridgeway doesn't actually go past the Giant Back to the walk. I was staying in the Yeovil Town Centre Premier Inn and was down for brekkie at 06:30, after which I drove the short distance to Yeovil Pen Mill Station; in fact, I could have walked it as the station is only a 15 minute walk from the Premier Inn. As is my way when planning my walks, I aim to choose locations with good public transport links. Yeovil has 2 stations. Yeovil Junction is on the London to Exeter main line, whilst Yeovil Pen Mill is on the Heart of Wessex Line with trains running between Gloucester and Bristol Temple Meads to Weymouth. Most importantly, Maiden Newton is 4 stops from Pen Mill. I arrived just in time for the 07:33 train. Maiden Newton is a passing place for trains as it's single line running between Yeovil & Dorchester From Maiden Newton my walk today would first take me on a steep climb and descent into the village of Sydling St Nicholas. From there a straight and steady climb to the top of Gore Hill at 850 feet would then be followed by a steady descent into the hamlet of Up Cerne. Another climb from Minton Parva to a minor road would bring me out opposite the Giants Head Caravan & Camping Park. The Wessex Ridgeway would continue through the caravan park with 2 more climbs up Ball Hill and finally, Lyscombe Hill, the highest point on this stage at 860 feet. Dorsetshire Gap would soon follow and it is here that I would leave the trail and continue to Lower Ansty where I would finish my walk.   Everything went swimmingly well initially. Like every other day the views were spectacular. Sydling St Nicholas is a really attractive village with plenty of thatched roof properties. Hoping for good luck today! Looking back at Maiden Newton on the 1st climb of the day You have to cross the busy A37 to reach Sydling St Nicholas Did as I was asked On the walk down to Sydling St Nicholas Sydling St Nicholas Sydling St Nicholas Sydling St Nicholas The climb out of the village up Gore Hill was relatively easy with bluebells, wild garlic and other spring flowers aplenty alongside the path. Up Cerne comprises an estate of 1,930 acres centered around a Grade II listed manor house. It includes eight let properties, most of which are listed buildings, a church, farm buildings, woodland, farmland and fishing lakes. So pretty! Looking back at Sydling St Nicholas The path up Gore Hill Pretty spring flowers Spring flowers & great views The instructions said 'Walk across field towards the trees' Dower House - Up Cerne Cank Cottages - Up Cerne Up Cerne Lake in Up Cerne After crossing the A352 at Minterne Parva I began the day’s third climb towards the caravan park. This is where things went wrong. I religiously followed the written instructions to arrive at a point with a glorious view over Up Cerne, even though there had been no obvious path to follow. With what I now know I was just 300 yards away from the road; however, I took a wrong turning and by the time I reached the road I was 1.2 miles off course. Whilst only classed as a minor road, this road was very busy and I was constantly having to walk along the very uneven verges. Eventually I found an entrance to a field and I thought I’d do better walking along the inside of this field. Sadly, there was no way of getting out of this field so I had to walk all the way back again to continue along the road. In the space of 90 minutes, I’d managed to walk just ¾ of a mile of the route. Wow! Wild garlic galore at Minterne Parva More wild garlic Former cock fighting ring at Minterne Parva Definitely on the right track at this point Still doing well with views back to Up Cerne Manor So how on earth did I manage to end up at Gales Hill? Idiot!! I reached the caravan park hot and bothered – actually, sweating profusely as it had got very humid. I’d already drunk all the water from my 2 bottles and I was only half way through the walk. I put the written instructions in my backpack and decided that using them along with the OS Maps app was hopeless; going forward I’d rely on the app and waymarkers alone. I asked at the caravan park office if there was anywhere I could get water. Thankfully, the lady pointed me in the direction of a standpipe and I filled my bottles.  At last - there it is. The entrance to the caravan park The caravan park Wessex Ridgeway continues after this gate at the back of the caravan park From the caravan park, the path dropped gently before the inevitable steep climb up Ball Hill. The reward for this climb was an incredible display of bluebells and wild garlic in the woods on the hilltop. Naturally, a descent followed to the hamlet of Folly, ahead of the day’s final and highest ascent to Lyscombe Hill (aka Higher Melcombe Hill). As I was walking up the steep path, a couple of fellow walkers with their dog were coming the other way. We exchanged pleasantries and as you do, I asked where they’d walked from and where they were heading to today. They reminded me that when I reached Dorsetshire Gap I would have to sign the visitors book. Dropping down towards Alton Pancras Thankfully didn't have to climb up here Some unpleasantness! Bluebells at the top of Ball Hill Waymarkers on a random stone structure in the middle of huge field Cows not to be argued with but looking at their undercarriages, they have other things on their minds! Having reached the top of Lyscombe Hill, the Wessex Ridgeway began a gentle descent. It took a left and after about 700 yards and the best displays of bluebells & wild garlic, I reached the fabled Dorsetshire Gap. I’d seen Dorsetshire Gap mentioned many times when doing my research for the Wessex Ridgeway. Essentially it is the meeting point of 5 ancient tracks   with steep, narrow, man-made cuttings; a crossroads, recognised for centuries, where people and animals moving east/west on the Great Ridgeway were able to access north/south tracks. Looking at it this way, I could see just what a special place this was. The lidded bin containing the current and previous visitors books was plain to see. What a wonderful tradition to keep alive. It was great reading some of the previous entries and naturally I signed in too; thank goodness though that a pen was supplied! Definitely worthy of a 'Wow!' Wow ! And 'Wow!' again Dorsetshire Gap Dorsetshire Gap Current & previous visitors books What terrible writing I have! AKA Dorset Gap I chose to leave the Wessex Ridgeway for the day at Dorsetshire Gap. I took one of the north/south tracks and walked a further 2 miles to Lower Ansty via Higher Melcombe. I reached The Fox pub at about 16:30. Having set off from Yeovil Pen Station at 07:30 with no real breaks, this had been a long, hot day, exacerbated by my stupidity near the caravan park. Nevertheless, I felt I’d earned my pint, crisps & flapjack, as since breakfast I’d only eaten 1 banana and a 2 finger Kit Kat! On my way towards Lower Ansty On my way towards Lower Ansty The Fox - Lower Ansty Well deserved I feel in spite of stupidity My plan for getting back to Yeovil was to get a taxi to Blandford Forum from where I’d get a bus. My hope was that I’d be able to catch the 17:40 CR4 from Blandford, as otherwise I’d have to wait until 19:40 for the next and last bus. Blandford Forum is 10 miles from Lower Ansty. Paul from Oakwood Taxis in Blandford picked me up and dropped me off at my bus stop with 5 minutes to spare – yippee! Many thanks to Paul who certainly did not drive like a 'Sunday afternoon' driver. The fact that the CR4 bus would take 100 minutes to reach Yeovil really didn’t bother me in the slightest as it went through some beautiful countryside and it gave me time to unwind and look back on yet another lovely day walking in Dorset. Back in Yeovil I spent a 2nd night in the Premier Inn. Not quite the 15.67 miles official distance! My plan for the next day had been to walk the next stage as far as Iwerne Courtney, stay 1 more night in Yeovil and then drive home. When I woke up next morning however, my body told me that 5 nights away from home and 4 long walks were enough! Fortunately, I make all my Premier Inn bookings flexible, allowing me to amend check-in dates as many times as I like, up to 13:00 on the day. So, I changed the check-in date to sometime later in the summer and prepared to drive home. It was yet another perfect day so I decided to call in at National Trust Stourhead on my way home. Were it not so far away from home, Stourhead would easily be my favourite National Trust property to visit; the gardens are spectacular and for once I’d timed my visit to perfection to see the rhododendrons in full flower.     The iconic view at NT Stourhead NT Stourhead UPDATE August 2025 I mentioned earlier in this post that I wished I'd visited Cerne Abbas itself. Over the August Bank Holiday weekend I returned to Dorset & Wiltshire to catch up on some of the places I'd missed before or wanted to spend more time investigating. I parked my car in the Kettle Bridge Lane car park and followed the riverside walk along the River Cerne into the village. It was certainly well worth the stop to explore more of this pretty village. The River Cerne Cerne Abbey was built in 987 AD. The original abbey building is long gone and in its place an imposing private residence has been built. However, the remains of the Abbot's Porch - the entrance to the Abbot's Hall - still stands as does Cerne Abbey Guest House. Cerne Abbey is now a private residence Cerne Abbas Abbot's Porch remains Cerne Abbey Guest House Inside Cerne Abbey Guest House Cerne Abbas village The Giant Inn pub The Giant Inn pub A chalkboard outside the Royal Oak pub in the village centre was advertising coffee and apple cake and as it was approaching cake o'clock now seemed a good time for a break! The Royal Oak pub Just what I needed!

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