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The 47 mile England Coast Path (ECP) between Woolwich Foot Tunnel and Grain was formally opened in January 2022. At the same time the Thames Path was extended from the Thames Barrier to the Woolwich Foot Tunnel. This created for the first time a fully signed ‘Source to Sea’ walking route – 232 miles in total. The England Coast Path section mainly comprises existing footpaths and knits them together with new paths where they didn’t previously exist. When I walked the ECP section last year, albeit from Grain to Woolwich, I broke it down into 3 walks and this worked really well for me. The ECP section has a completely different feel to the Thames Path. It’s very hard for me to put into words but the one word that keeps springing to my mind is ‘edgy’. The river is really wide and much of the section crosses wide, open and exposed marshes. You get muddy beaches that go out for huge distances and attract lots of birds. Industrial installations are huge. Ships are huge. For 12 miles between Cliffe and Allhallows you’re completely on your own – no cafés, no buses and the only company you’re likely to have is the odd inquisitive cow. This stage from Woolwich to Greenhithe breaks you in gently to the new landscape I’ve described above. I chose Greenhithe as an end point because it has a good railway service – SouthEastern and Thameslink trains. It’s the longest of the 3 ECP stages at just over 18 miles but the reality is that I walked closer to 20 miles. Getting to and from Woolwich has become so much easier since the full opening of the Elizabeth Line in May 2022. I can now get the Thameslink from Huntingdon to Farringdon and change there for the Elizabeth Line to Woolwich. I arrived at Woolwich by 08:45 and popped into the M&S Food Hall next door to buy my lunch sandwich. What shall I have today? I settled on chicken salad. It was very grey and overcast as I walked down to the river. There were a lot of people in running gear assembling here. I surmised that as it was a Saturday, they would be taking part in a parkrun. I asked one of the runners and he confirmed that it was the weekly Woolwich Thames Path 5k parkrun. I had to smile that a number of the cast iron male statues that form the work of art named “Assembly” were wearing hi-vis marshall’s jackets. I don’t have the foggiest idea what the statues are meant to represent! Looking back upstream on a very grey day Parkrunners assembling for their run The runners set off at 9 o’clock and I thought it best to wait until they had all departed before setting off myself. For the first ½ mile I had modern apartment blocks to my right and to my left it was a bit difficult to see because the river is so wide. However, looking at a map, I had London City Airport and the huge Royal Docks on the other side of the river. The runners turned off the Thames Path at Gallions Reach Park and that was the last I saw of them. Apart from a few dog walkers and solo runners, I pretty much had the path to myself. I was now walking towards Crossness. The one thing I could clearly see on the other side of the river was the Barking Creek Barrier. Barking Creek is where the River Roding flows into the Thames. The barrier is there to protect Barking from flooding as well as to support the work of the Thames Barrier. It’s nowhere near as pretty as the Thames Barrier, just pretty brutalist I’d say. If you look carefully you'll see there are actually 3 extra barriers - 2 tiddlers on the right and 1 on the left. Barking Creek Barrier The last view of the Canary Wharf skyscrapers Crossness Pumping Station came next. Unlike the Barking Creek Barrier which is totally utilitarian, the buildings are pure Victorian extravagance – and that’s just the outside! The sewage pumping station was designed by Sir Joseph Bazalgette who was the chief engineer for the Metropolitan Board of Works. It was opened in 1865 and was decommissioned in the 1950s. Thankfully the buildings were Grade 1 listed in 1970. Restoration has been taking place for many years and the station is open to the public on certain days during the year. Even if you don’t like engineering, I recommend you try to go on a visit and I can guarantee you will have at least one “Wow!” moment when you see the engine room AND you get to wear a hard hat! It’s utterly amazing and beautiful at the same time. In the last few months, the Trust in charge of the restoration has raised sufficient funds to enable them to complete work to be able to restart the safe running of one of the steam engines – the Prince Consort Engine. I’m looking forward to seeing this in late September. The web site gives details of open days – Crossness Pumping Station Crossness Pumping Station I defy anyone not to say 'Wow!' Next door to the former sewage pumping station are the actual Crossness sewage treatment works. Needless to say, I walked past as quickly as I could! As if my nose hadn’t had enough of rather unpleasant smells, next to the sewage works was a huge waste incineration site. Much of the waste is delivered by barge and burned to generate electricity. By now the clouds were breaking up and the sun was breaking through. Unfortunately, this didn’t make the landscape look much better so I moved into top gear and before I knew it I was in Erith. Crossness Sewage Treatment Works Ford's Dagenham jetty across the river It's brightening up anyway Cory's waste incineration plant It's not pretty Look at that mud! QEII Bridge in the background At least it's not a shopping trolley Almost in Erith Erith has a pier - a very long pier and at 360 metres and shaped like a boomerang, it is the longest pier in London. It was used by ships to unload their cargo but as Erith’s industry declined it was eventually abandoned until the late 1990s. Morrisons built a supermarket on the site of the former deep wharf and I’m guessing that as a sweetener to get their planning, they may have paid to restore the pier as a public amenity? It was nearly 11 o’clock and with over 7 miles under my belt, it was time for a coffee. I found a bench overlooking the pier on what had now turned into a lovely Saturday morning. Erith Pier Duly refreshed and mentally prepared for the “River Darent bit” coming up soon, I carried on along the streets of Erith until the path rejoined the river at the start of Crayford marshes. The QEII Bridge looks tantalisingly close from here but if you’ve not done your homework, you’re in for a bit of a shock. Crayford marshes At Crayford Ness the River Darent flows into the Thames. The problem here is that there is no bridge across the mouth of the Darent. What there is here is a mini-Barking Creek Barrier called the Dartford Creek Barrier. It too is part of the overall Thames flood defence infrastructure but its particular purpose is to protect Dartford and Crayford from flooding. The only way to get from one side of the Darent to the other is to walk 5.6 miles across Crayford and Dartford marshes – · down the River Darent, · down its tributary the River Cray, · into Crayford, · back up the Cray, · down the Darent, · across the Darent at the A206 bridge · and then finally back up the Darent! It’s a little disheartening when you’re walking the Thames. As if that wasn’t enough, you share part of the path with a dirt bike club. Anyway, I followed the official path up to “into Crayford” and cut out “back up the Cray, down the Darent”; instead I saved my self nearly ½ mile by walking on the pavement by the side of A206. It’s a busy road but there is a crash barrier between the pavement and the road. The Darent estuary The official ECP route The Dartford Creek Barrier The mighty River Darent There were blackberries galore to keep me going Eventually you're in Crayford This is the official route to go but I chose otherwise! I continued along the main road I continued along the pavement to the bridge over the Darent Yay! I've crossed the River Darent! After what seemed like an eternity I was finally back on the other side of the Darent estuary and now I really was close to the QEII Bridge; just 2 miles to reach it. I stopped here to eat the sandwich I’d bought earlier in Woolwich and then set off again for the final push. What was immediately disconcerting was the sound of gunfire. Fortunately I knew from last year that as well as hosting a dirt bike club, Dartford marshes also have pistol and rifle ranges. I assumed (or rather hoped) that no stray bullets would come my way but in any case I put on a bit of a spurt to get out of range (pun intended!). This is more like it. Back alongside the Thames QEII Bridge getting closer Having survived the “River Darent bit”, the QEII Bridge got ever closer ( I think I keep saying this). Getting to walk under the bridge is the highlight of this stage. Needless to say I took loads of photos and when I emerged on the other side I was officially outside the M25 ring for the first time since the end of stage 8 near Runnymede. The QEII Bridge connecting Essex with Kent The QEII Bridge is a real looker As it only carries southbound traffic the bridge isn't that wide I'm under the QEII Bridge I'm now out of the M25 ring Greenhithe was just over 1 mile from the Dartford Crossing. I left the path at Greenhithe Asda and walked the short distance to the station. It was only 15:30 so I’d made really good time today; the stink from the Crossness sewage works and the gunfire at Dartford marshes certainly helped my pace. My left foot was hurting as it had been by the end of every stage I’d walked but I was used to this. This stage was definitely unlike any stage on the Thames Path! I now had to get home and pack for my 2 night stay away in Strood, which would be my base for completing stages 13 and 14 on Monday and Tuesday. The next stage passes right under the tallest electricity pylon in the UK I chose to finish at Greenhithe Asda This is the walk I did today cutting out a bit of the Darent & Cray

I was really determined to reach Woolwich Foot Tunnel today, as to do so would mean I’d walked the 185.2 miles of the Thames Path National Trail in 11 stages. This would be 1 less than I did it in 2022. Obviously, I would still have the 47 miles of England Coast Path to go beyond Woolwich to complete this challenge. The industrial action by ASLEF union members was over for now and this meant I was able to get to today’s start point by train by 10:30. It was going to be one of those ‘sunny intervals’ days which was fine by me. So, off I set towards Westminster. Between Lambeth Bridge and Westminster Bridge is the National COVID Memorial Wall – over 500 yards of it! The wall is a visual representation of the UK’s catastrophic loss of life to COVID. There are more than 220,000 individually painted red and pink hearts, each one representing a life lost to COVID. The wall really brings home the huge loss of life we had in the UK. Every time I pass it, I get quite emotional for 2 opposing reasons. My first emotion is that I feel so sorry for the people who died and their families. Many of these people died needlessly e.g. care home residents infected by patients released from hospitals who hadn’t been tested, despite Matt Hancock declaring the Government would “throw a protective ring around our care homes”. My second emotion is one of anger towards our Government that appeared to only take action when it was obvious to the rest of the country that something had to be done. Even when they did take action it was always too little too late. For heaven’s sake, couldn’t they see what had been happening in countries like China, Hong Kong, Singapore, Italy? I got the impression that the buffoon in Downing Street was so detached from reality and somehow thought the virus wouldn’t come here. This makes my blood boil. It is ironic that the memorial wall is directly opposite Parliament. Needless to say, the Government had no say in the creation of the memorial, otherwise it would probably have never been created. St Thomas’ Hospital is on the other side of the wall. Lambeth Bridge Houses of Parliament Just look how long the COVID Memorial Wall is Hearts were painted on by a team of volunteers Westminster Bridge So, moving on from the COVID memorial, I next had the joys of the South Bank to deal with. Between Westminster Bridge and Tower Bridge I had to accept there would be a large number of families and tourists unwittingly conspiring to get in my way, slow me down and cause me to swear a lot – quietly! The older I’ve got the more intolerant I’ve become, which of course is how things should be. I’m only joking by the way; it’s holiday season and we desperately need tourists to bring money into the country. I’m sure I also dawdle & dither when I’m abroad. All these people! London Eye 1 of the Golden Jubilee Bridges either side of Hungerford Railway Bridge Waterloo Bridge I love the trees along the South Bank Sandy beach in Central London Blackfriars Bridge with Railway Bridge behind In need of a toilet break, I popped into the Tate Modern. The works on show in there somehow manage to bring The Emperor’s New Clothes to the front of my mind. Art? Really? The Turbine Hall at Tate Modern Moving on, the number of families and tourists increased again as I approached Borough Market and then Tower Bridge. I remained calm as I knew once I walked under Tower Bridge, I would have the best 4 miles of this walk ahead of me and these would be tourist-free, at least until I reached Greenwich. The Millennium Bridge Southwark Bridge Southwark Cathedral Borough Market. Just look at all that cake! The Shard - still the UK's tallest building London Bridge HMS Belfast The City The Tower of London Tower Bridge Immediately you pass under Tower Bridge you are almost transported back to London Docklands in the 19th century. Shad Thames is the name of a street but is also an informal name for the surrounding area within Bermondsey. In the 19th century the area included the largest warehouse complex in London. Many of the warehouses have been converted into apartments and offices. I think it’s brilliant that the underlying warehouses have been saved and have retained their original features. Most of them are named after the original commodities that were stored in them. There is so much fascinating history all along here. Peace in Shad Thames Looking down towards Canary Wharf I love how the warehouses have been saved & repurposed Dr Salter's Daydream statues Dr Salter's Daydream In Rotherhithe Village I passed the Mayflower pub, linked to the sailing of the Mayflower in 1620 to America. Opposite the pub is the Brunel Museum, situated at the Brunel Engine House. This was part of the infrastructure for the Thames Tunnel, the 1st tunnel in the world built under a navigable river. It still has the tunnel shaft that you can take a look at. It’s fascinating stuff. As the river snakes it gives the impression that The Shard is on the right bank rather than the left bank. Rotherhithe Village Brunel Museum Pilgrim statue. Ghost of a Pilgrim Father & a young dockworker reading a comic filled with pictures of America Great to see this bascule bridge being restored The Shard seems to have moved to the right bank After passing the top of the Rotherhithe peninsula, the Canary Wharf skyscrapers came into full view on the other side of the river. Canary Wharf was developed on the former West India Docks. The original building, 1 Canada Square, is just about holding on to being the tallest building in Canary Wharf. If you are really interested in the former docklands, I heartily recommend walking the North Path Thames Path from Trinity Buoy Wharf to Tower Bridge. It’s fascinating. If you don’t fancy the walk, then why not visit the Museum of London Docklands at No 1 Warehouse in Canary Wharf – it’s free to enter! Museum of London Docklands Directly opposite Canary Wharf the path passes Surrey Docks Farm which is a city farm and charity. It is free to enter so relies on donations to keep going. I like to stop off there to see the animals and buy a coffee. Today though, it was very warm so I treated myself to an ice cream. As I was paying, I saw they had one rather large jam doughnut left on sale. Do I or don’t I? Silly question really. With room in my backpack, this would serve as a tasty afternoon snack later on. Surrey Docks Farm Thames Path goes through here when the farm is open Who'd have thought there would be a farm here I can still see you! A couple of donkeys Continuing towards Greenwich, the path passed Greenland Dock which was part of the Surrey Commercial Docks and like all of London’s docks closed in the late 1960s and 1970s due to the shipping industry adopting the use of containers for transporting cargo. The Thames in London wasn’t deep enough to handle big container ships. After 10+ years of remaining derelict, nearly all the docks were filled in but Greenland Dock escaped. Today, all its warehouses have been demolished and replaced with apartments. The dock itself is now used for water sports as well as having a small marina. Next to Greenland is South Dock Marina. It has a fully working lock and access to Greenland Dock so that watercraft have access to the river. Some retained lock gate mechanicals Greenland Dock Entrance to South Dock Marina South Dock Marina Canon aimed at Greenwich After being forced away from the river briefly, the path rejoined at Deptford Creek, which is where the River Ravensbourne flows into the Thames. A modern footbridge crosses the mouth of the river. Peter The Great who studied the science of shipbuilding here. Gift from Russia in 2001. Putin visited in 2003 Deptford Creek looking back upstream I’d now reached busy Greenwich which has so much to see and do. As well as the Cutty Sark, there are attractions such as the Old Royal Naval College, the National Maritime Museum, Greenwich Park and the Greenwich Royal Observatory. It’s no wonder it’s such a popular place to visit. Cutty Sark Entrance to Greenwich Foot Tunnel Greenwich Foot Tunnel The Old Royal Naval College Old Royal Naval College The Trafalgar Tavern in Greenwich. Bit of a shrinking violet On leaving Greenwich, heading for the O2, the path passed under a disused jetty at Greenwich Power Station. This was where coal was unloaded to feed the steam turbines. The power station generated electricity for what became London Underground. As years went on the steam turbines were replaced with oil and subsequently gas turbines. London Underground now uses the National Grid for its electricity but Greenwich Power Station remains an emergency power supply and London's only original power station still in operation. Greenwich Power Station Greenwich Power station former jetty for unloading coal The path continued up the left hand side of the Greenwich Peninsula towards the O2 Arena. This side is still not fully developed but there is plenty of construction going on and each time I walk here another new tower block has sprung up. The path passes this huge ready-mixed concrete plant A favourite view of mine. The apartment blocks dwarfed by the skyscrapers Near the top of the peninsula the path passed what looks like a standard road sign pointing to a place called ‘Here’, a distance of 24,859 (presumably) miles. This is in fact an artwork. It is located at 0 degrees longitude – the same as the Greenwich Meridian - and marks the distance around the earth and back from that point. Were it not that the physical position of the artwork is so important, I feel it should be in the Tate Modern! ‘Here’ is actually just 1 work in a larger collection called ‘The Line’. This is London’s first public art trail. Here! The O2 Arena structure is huge and the metal fencing that surrounds it seems to go on for ever. Eventually though I was on the right hand side of Greenwich Peninsula with the Thames Barrier in the distance. Climbing what is basically a very big tent! The two towers of the cable car across the river now dominated the skyline. The cable car connects North Greenwich with the Royal Docks, providing easy access to the O2 Arena and ExCel London. For many years the cable car was called the Emirates Air Line after its sponsor but in October 2022 it became the IFS Cloud Cable Car – not quite such a catchy name – after a new sponsor took over. The cable car is a line in its own right on the Transport for London (TFL) network. IFS Cloud Cable Car A new Damien Hirst sculpture had appeared since I last walked here last year. This latest one is huge and is called ‘Demon With Bowl’ and at 60 feet tall I was hardly going to miss it! It joins a number of other Damien Hirst pieces on display here. Demon With Bowl. Impossible to miss Another Damien Hurst piece - Hydra & Kali And another Damien Hirst piece - The Mermaid This one is by Antony Gormley - Quantum Cloud Continuing towards the Thames Barrier, the tower blocks of new apartments came to an end at Greenwich Yacht Club and industrial units took over, particularly concrete and aggregates facilities. Ship unloading aggregate Aggregate travels over your head At last I reached the Thames Barrier which took 8 years to build and first became operational in 1982. It’s a really impressive piece of infrastructure. Thames Barrier The Thames Path passes the barrier along a short underpass beneath the control centre. It features a graphical representation of the river from sea to source along one of the walls. As I emerged from the underpass, I had reached the original end of the Thames Path. I’ve never quite understood why the signage here says the barrier is 180 miles from the source but the Thames Path National Trail has always been 184 miles long. Never mind, this is all water under the bridge now, as in January 2022 the Thames Path was extended by 1.2 miles to finish/start at the Woolwich Foot Tunnel. Thames Barrier Thames Barrier Thames Barrier The underpass at the Thames Barrier The underpass at the Thames Barrier The sign says the source is 180 miles away After taking a few pics at the barrier I set off again and followed the signs for Woolwich. Approaching the 2 Woolwich Ferry piers either side of the river, I was surprised not to be able to see a ferry. A sign at the south pier advised my that the ferries were taking a well earned summer break for some R&R and would be back in service at the beginning of September. The Woolwich Ferry is where the North & South Circular Roads start/end on the eastern side of London. In the west, they meet at Chiswick. It’s not too big a deal that the ferry was closed for summer because motorists can use the Blackwall Tunnel and pedestrians & cyclists can use the Woolwich Foot Tunnel. MV Royal Iris. Abandoned here in 2002 and rusting away The two piers of the Woolwich Ferry but no ferries! I reached the Woolwich Foot Tunnel at about 16:45. I took the mandatory photos to show I’d made it but there was no sense of jubilation that not only had I just completed the Thames Path National Trail for the 4th time but I’d completed it in fewer stages than I’d done before and with a dodgy left foot! There is just something about the buildings surrounding the entrance to the tunnel and their close proximity to it that is just so awful and to my mind detracts from the achievement. Quite apart from this, there was the small matter of the 3 England Coast Path stages to go before my challenge would be complete. I was really looking forward to these walks. If I thought the river was wide here, I'd seen nothing yet! Anyway, it was time to have the customary sneaky pint before getting the Elizabeth Line back to Farringdon. I went to the Dial Arch, a pub I know very well from when my son had an apartment in Woolwich. Remember the jam doughnut I bought earlier in the day at Surrey Docks Farm? Well, it had survived and went down very well with my pint! I've just completed the Thames Path for the 4th time! The Woolwich Foot Tunnel Looking downstream towards the estuary. This will have to wait until stage 12. Celebrating the end of the Thames Path! Today's walk Look familiar?

Today I was determined to reach Vauxhall as this would then leave Vauxhall to the end of the Thames Path at Woolwich as stage 11. The weather forecasters promised sunny intervals all day and I had a really good feeling that today was going to be a good day. I got to the start of my walk at Teddington Lock by getting the train (3 actually) to Richmond and then getting the R68 bus. I couldn’t believe my luck that the bus was waiting at the bus stop right outside Richmond station. When I reached the lock at the end of stage 9 there was more cloud than blue sky but today it was the other way round; just what I wanted for a few drone photos. Teddington sees the start of the tidal Thames and this would become apparent throughout the day with the low tide. Teddington Lock is also the last lock maintained by the Environment Agency and is the only EA lock staffed 24 hours a day. The Port of London Authority is responsible for everything downstream of Teddington. There are 3 locks at Teddington – barge, launch and skiff locks. The barge lock is the longest lock on the Thames at 650 feet. It’s so long that there is an extra set of gates half way along it to make it more efficient for smaller craft to use it. The skiff lock on the other hand is so narrow that it has been nicknamed ‘the coffin’! Today was very much going to be a day of bridges, kicking off with the two Teddington Lock footbridges, both Grade II listed. The 2 footbridges at Teddington Lock The spectacular weir at Teddington The barge lock at Teddington Having got the photos I wanted I set off towards Richmond. It wasn’t too long before the imposing former Royal Star and Garter Home at the top of Richmond Hill came into view. A little further on and set back slightly from the river was Ham House & Gardens, a 17th century house full of paintings, furniture and textiles now maintained by the National Trust - Ham House Richmond Hill in the background Ham House On the other side of the river and almost opposite Ham House is Marble Hill House. Marble Hill House was built in the 1720s for Henrietta Howard, mistress of King George II when he was Prince of Wales. It is now maintained by English Heritage - Marble Hill House Hammerton’s Ferry operates a service across the river here, so you can easily visit Ham House and Marble Hill House without having to go into Richmond to cross the river at Richmond Bridge. Marble Hill House The Petersham Hotel on the left & the former Royal Star & Garter Home Just a few hundred yards further on and Richmond Bridge became visible. Definitely drone time again to capture the bridge on such a lovely day. The path continued through Buccleuch Gardens, a council owned and very well maintained park right by the side of the river. Absolutely gorgeous on a sunny day! Richmond Bridge Buccleuch Gardens named after the Duke of Buccleuch Richmond Bridge was the first of a group of 4 bridges that came up in quick succession. There doesn’t appear to be a collective noun for bridges but I feel there ought to be one! Any suggestions? Richmond Railway Bridge is number 2 and Twickenham Bridge, a road bridge carrying the A316, is number 3. Much more interesting is Richmond Footbridge. This bridge has 5 arches. The first incorporates Richmond Lock. The middle 3 arches incorporate sluice gates that are raised and lowered to control water flow. The furthest arch incorporates gently sloping slipways that allow users of smaller boats to pull their boats over on a set of rollers. The lock is the furthest downstream on the Thames and is managed by the PLA. There are so many more nerdy facts about this bridge but I’d better stop here for fear of losing readers! Suffice to say, it’s a handsome bridge with a lot going on. Richmond Bridge Richmond Riverside Asgill House - Grade I listed Richmond Railway Bridge Twickenham Bridge Richmond Lock & Footbridge The lock is under the 1st arch of the bridge 2 footbridges with the sluice gate mechanisms between them For the next couple of miles, the footpath followed the river but was sandwiched for much of this distance between trees and bushes with the sunlight shining through the branches. This was rather pleasant as it served to keep me out of direct sunlight for a bit. On the other hand it was a bit of a shame because out of sight on the right was Old Deer Park and then Kew Gardens. However, the path opened up on reaching Syon House to the left and the Kew Gardens “overlooking the Thames” benches to the right. The path beyond Richmond A glimpse of Old Deer Park Isleworth Kew Gardens Syon House From here onwards, it was easy to tell that I was now well and truly in London. 2½ miles since the last of the Richmond bridges I reached Kew Bridge, closely followed by Kew Railway Bridge. Another mile and Chiswick Bridge came into view. The River Brent flows into the Thames at Brentford Kew Bridge Kew Railway Bridge Chiswick Bridge The Oxford & Cambridge boat races finish just before Chiswick Bridge at Mortlake. The official finish is at a stone with the imaginative inscription “UBR”. The stone is very close to The Ship pub. It will come as no surprise to learn that a similar stone is at the start of the course close to Putney Bridge. The Boat Races finish here The former Mortlake Brewery As tempted as I was to stop at The Ship, I still had a long way to go so pressed on. Barnes Bridge is iconic and thankfully Grade II listed so nobody can mess about with it. It’s a footbridge as well as a railway bridge. A newcomer at Barnes on the other side of the river is the Dukes Meadows Footbridge, opened in January 2023. I won’t include it in the tally of bridges today as it doesn’t actually cross the river as you’ll see from the photo. As bridges go, I think it’s a bit of a looker, so well done to the London Borough of Hounslow. Its purpose is to get rid of an inconvenient detour to get from one side of Barnes Bridge to the other. Users now walk under Barnes Bridge itself – brilliant! As a self-confessed Thames nerd, I naturally gave the new bridge a test drive a couple of weeks after it opened and gave it my seal of approval. The shiny new Dukes Meadows Footbridge Dukes Meadows Footbridge in January 2023 Dukes Meadows Footbridge in January 2023 Looking downstream from Barnes Bridge. The next 3½ miles to Putney Bridge were more of the same - the footpath following the river but sandwiched for much of this distance between trees and bushes but still plenty of sunlight shining through. I was so enjoying this. What a lovely way to spend an afternoon Fullers Chiswick Brewery Hammersmith Bridge - full restoration will cost in excess of £200 million Hammersmith Bridge latest Shortly before Putney Bridge on the opposite side of the river is the striking Fulham Riverside Stand development. It’s impossible to miss it. I first walked past it in January 2020 when the old stand had been demolished. From what I could see, there is still work being carried out and from what I’ve since read, having been beset with so many issues, the development won’t now be complete until the start of the 2024/25 season. Riverside Stand August 2023 January 2020 when I first started walking the Thames Path After admiring the Boat Race stone by Putney Bridge, I continued along the Thames Path which briefly took to the streets of Putney before entering Wandsworth Park with its magnificent avenue of lime and plane trees. After exiting the park, the “ugly duckling” of Thames bridges came into plain view – Wandsworth Bridge. Well, to me it merits this tag. To reach the bridge and get beyond it you need to have your wits about you and make sure you keep a look out for Thames Path signs, since there is a lot of construction work going on. Boat Races starting stone has been hidden by construction works for ages Putney Bridge Fulham Railway Bridge carries the District Line Thames Path continues this way Wandsworth Park Wandsworth Park Just keep following the signs Wandsworth Bridge Once clear of Wandsworth Bridge I was on the home run with 4 miles to go to reach Vauxhall Bridge. Much of this section is characterised by modern apartment blocks – lots and lots of them. This isn’t all bad as the path is sandwiched between the river and the apartments and is wide and paved. These last 4 miles provided me with a lot of interest including bridges (naturally), house boats a plenty, Battersea Park and the Battersea Power Station development. Lovely wide path all the way to the Vauxhall now Slight detour as the heliport is in the way Battersea Railway Bridge There are lots of houseboats along this stretch St Mary's Church Battersea The new Chelsea Waterfront development. Lots Road Power Station is now apartments It's time for a few more bridges but we're almost there. First we have Battersea Bridge. Battersea Bridge Albert Bridge is to my mind the prettiest of the Thames bridges and is even better after sunset when it’s illuminated by 4000 individual lamps. Albert Bridge by day Albert Bridge at sunset Next we have Chelsea Bridge, another good looker, followed by the less glamorous Grosvenor Bridge. Grosvenor Bridge is also known as the Victoria Railway bridge. It carries 8 railway tracks in & out of Victoria Station Chelsea Bridge Grosvenor Bridge Battersea Power Station has become a bit of hit since its public opening in October 2022. It recently won “Developer of the Year - Commercial Property” at the 2023 Property Awards. All 4 of its iconic chimneys have been rebuilt and one of them has a lift that you can go up in. Its glass roof pokes out from the top of the chimney to give you 360 degree views of London - Lift 109 The power station also has some excellent public toilets so I availed myself. Battersea Power Station. The lift is poking out from the nearest chimney Inside the power station By the time I reached the end of my walk at Vauxhall Bridge it was almost 7pm and I was in urgent need of refreshment. Fortunately, just before the bridge was The Riverside pub. Perfect! As I was downing my pint I worked out I’d completed another 17 miles today and best of all, I was still on target to reach Grain in just 4 more stages. My next walk would be Vauxhall to Woolwich Foot Tunnel. As I got up to head for Vauxhall Underground Station my left achilles was throbbing and my heel was hurting. I hobbled to the station but from past experience I knew that tomorrow I’d feel better again. On balance, this had been a very good day. Bliss! Vauxhall Bridge & the end of stage 10 I've walked a very long way today If anyone has survived up to this point it is time for a bridge count. Treating the 2 Teddington Lock footbridges as 1, today's walk passed 19 bridges that cross the Thames, be they foot, road or railway bridges; that's more than 1 bridge per mile!

This was the second week of ASLEF’s overtime ban meaning the earliest I could get to Staines station by rail with an off-peak ticket today would be midday. That was going to be no use to me, so as much as it broke my heart, I paid more than double the price to get there 2 hours earlier. It would have been still more had I not used Tickety Split (www.ticketysplit.co.uk) to identify how to break the trip down into 3 separate journeys and save money. How ridiculous is this that you have to go to so much effort to get the cheapest prices! All I can say is “Well done sites like Tickety Split!”. Ludicrous! 🤬 So, after catching the 07:19 train from Huntingdon I reached the delightful Staines station at 09:45 – the final train was late of course! Putting the hit to my pocket behind me I made my way back down to the Thames Path and very soon I was heading downstream towards Shepperton. It was a lovely morning. For the first mile of the walk the path is graveled, with flats and houses to the left and across the river, bigger houses, many with private moorings. Looking back towards Staines Railway Bridge Thames Path at Staines heading downstream The river took a 90 degree bend to the left and very soon I reached Penton Hook Lock at Laleham. The lock here cuts off a really large meander of the river – almost a full circle. When dug, the lock cut created Penton Hook Island (in fact 3 islands). With weirs connecting the islands you are able to explore them all if you want; I did this a couple of years ago but I can’t say I was exactly overwhelmed. Penton Hook Lock & Islands Penton Hook Lock After the lock, the path continued alongside a road imaginatively called Thames Side. Again, there were houses left and right but it was still quite pretty. Thames Side continued for 2 miles, passing under the M3 and eventually reaching Chertsey Lock. Just beyond the lock was the mighty handsome Chertsey Bridge and it was time to get the drone out. It’s a shame that the centre of Chertsey itself is more than a mile from the river – too far for me to investigate today. I'd love to know what this is! Thames Side Laleham M3 in the background and the weir at Chertsey Lock Chertsey Lock Chertsey Lock & Weir The old and new - Chertsey Bridge with the M3 bridge in the background Chertsey Bridge The landscape changed after Chertsey Bridge with far fewer houses and a more rural feel but after another mile or so it was back to houses on both sides; very nice houses of course and no doubt very expensive with it. I was approaching Shepperton Lock now but before the lock in the middle of the river was Pharaoh’s Island – a small island, only accessible by boat, on which 20+ properties have been built. Most of the houses have Egyptian names. The most expensive, Sphinx, last sold in 2021 for £2.1 million, so a little out of my price range. Shepperton - a more rural feel briefly I've always loved this house Dockett Moorings riverside apartments Pharaoh's Island Shepperton At Shepperton Lock there are 2 options for continuing to Walton. For most of the year the fun way is to get on the ferry across to the Weybridge side of the river and then walk down the long and it has to be said, rather boring, Desborough Cut to Walton Bridge. When the Desborough Cut is flooded, walkers are forced to stay on the Shepperton side of the river and roughly follow the original course of the river to Walton Bridge, where they can cross the river. The Desborough Cut route costs £3 (up from £2.50 last year) and is 1.2 miles. The alternative route is free but is 2.4 miles. By now the pain of paying full price for my train tickets had reduced a little and I forked out the £3 for the ferry. A couple of weeks earlier I’d paid £2 to cross the river from Benson Waterfront to Benson Lock and got a considerably longer ride! I had to resign myself to accepting I was having to pay London prices!! 🤣 Shepperton Lock The Thames Path officially crosses the river by ferry My very brief Thames cruise Cruise over - looking back at how far I travelled! After disembarking from the ferry, I continued along the cut in the direction of Walton Bridge. In previous years I’ve walked past a locked metal bridge leading onto an island and a derelict, quite creepy mansion. This is D’Oyly Carte Island, so called after Richard D’Oyly Carte. D’Oyly Carte was a producer who first brought Gilbert and Sullivan together. He also founded the Savoy Theatre, Royal English Opera House and built the Savoy Hotel. He bought the island and built a large house on it, named Eyot House. His intention was to make the house a secluded annex to his Savoy Hotel. However, he couldn’t get a drinks licence, so it remained as a private residence. The house is now Grade II listed. When I walked the Thames Path last year, I noticed electricians feeding power cables alongside the bridge and onto the island, so I knew the latest owner was hopefully going to begin restoration of the house. This year I got a bit of a surprise as I saw people crossing the bridge and quite a few more waiting patiently by a new entrance gate onto the bridge. I asked the staff member standing at the gate what was going on. She informed me that in partnership with Café Benedict, the owners had in the last 2 weeks opened a new outdoor café on the island called “D’Oyly’s”. Judging by the length of the queue of waiting people I decided I didn't have time to stop today, so continued my walk; definitely somewhere to stop another time though. Welcome to D'Oyly Carte Island Mansion is going to be brought back to life D'Oyly's - a new café reached from the Weybridge side of the river The 6th incarnation of Walton Bridge is really handsome and is one of the newest bridges across the Thames. It opened in 2013. Walton Bridge Walton Bridge Between Walton Bridge and Molesey it has to be said that the path is a bit ‘samey’ for about 3½ miles; it continues, sandwiched between tall trees whose branches often meet to form a canopy. Every now and again there is an opening to see the river. It also has a few good riverside pubs! The Anglers of Walton The canine fraternity is very well catered for here The Weir at Sunbury overlooking the weir One of the three weirs at Sunbury Sunbury Lock is about halfway along this section. It’s interesting in that there are 2 lock keeper’s cottages. The first one you come to is built on the site of the original lock and has been a private residence for a long time. Something I’d never noticed before is that there are actually 2 locks at Sunbury – one next to the other. The older lock is still hand operated. The weirs here are very popular with kayakers. The original lock keeper's cottage Sunbury Lock Sunbury Lock - actually 2 locks Sunbury Lock - actually 2 locks Sunbury Ferry - I think this must be the newest way to cross the river Continuing towards Molesey At Molesey the path opened up onto Hurst Park, a large open recreation space, very popular with families. In the middle of the river is Garrick's Ait (an ait is a small island). This was named after the actor David Garrick. It has 20 houses on it and can only be accessed by boat. Hurst Park looking over towards Hampton Third ferry service of the day - this one between Hurst Park & Hampton Garrick's Ait with Hampton on the left Garrick's Temple to Shakespeare Between Molesey and Hampton Court Bridge is Tagg’s Island, home to some of the most expensive house boats along the Thames. Houseboats moored at Tagg's Island How pleasant is this! More houseboats at Tagg's Island Tagg's Island left and Ash Island right Molesey Lock I reached Hampton Court Bridge just before 3 o’clock and crossed over the river towards Hampton Court Palace. It was a warm afternoon and definitely time for an ice cream. The fingerpost by the bridge confirmed I was 147 miles from the source of the river, Teddington Lock, my target for today was 4½ miles away and Tower Bridge was a mere 29 miles downstream. Hampton Court Bridge Looking back upstream from Hampton Court Bridge I've earned this! After passing the Palace my next target was Kingston. Whilst you can take the Thames Path that more or less hugs the river, there is a slightly more interesting (in my eyes) route and ‘Yes’ I admit is a little bit shorter, that takes you through Hampton Court Park AKA Home Park. I like going this way because if you’re lucky you get to see some of the many deer in the park. You also get free views of the Palace gardens and a walk along the The Long Water. To take this detour, there is a gate alongside the Palace wall, about ½ mile past the Palace. It’s called the Jubilee Gate. It’s very heavy and may appear locked but it isn’t. You have to cross a couple of fairways of Hampton Court Palace Golf Club but then you’re free to walk where you like. As long as you have a reasonable sense of direction you eventually emerge from the park at the point the Thames Path reaches Kingston Bridge. On this occasion I got to see just one lone deer in the distance who'd got separated from the herd. The Golden Gates at Hampton Court designed by Jean Tijou in 1690 Entering Jubilee Gate - Palace to the left & golf course ahead Today just 1 deer separated from the herd The Long Walk The Long Walk is ¾ mile long After crossing Kingston Bridge, the Thames Path continued up through a lovely 14 acre park called Canbury Gardens. There were loads of people out enjoying the fine weather. Before I knew it, I could see the weir gates of Teddington Lock in the distance. Depending on which way you’re going, Teddington Lock sees the start or end of the tidal Thames. I reached the lock at about 4:30 and my left foot decided I should end today’s walk here. There are 2 footbridges here, separated by a small island ,that enable you to cross from the Ham side to the Teddington side of the river. Teddington railway station is about ¾ mile from the lock. However, there’s a much closer bus stop about 200 yards away and feeling lazy, I waited here for a bus. A few minutes later the R68 turned up and this took me to Richmond station. As Richmond has more trains than Teddington to and from Central London, I decided that for my next stage, I would get back to Teddington Lock using this same method. A top tip if you don't want to walk from the station to the lock! With another 17 miles under my belt I remained confident that I’d be able to reach the Isle of Grain in 5 more stages. Kingston Bridge looking downstream with the railway bridge in the background Wildfowl at Canbury Gardens The 1st footbridge at Teddington Lock The 2nd bridge at Teddington Lock is much more graceful The mighty weir at Teddington Lock

For the next stage of my walking challenge I really wanted to get as far as Staines; that would be 22 miles of river covered, though in reality it would undoubtedly mean further than that to walk – it always does! For a walk of this distance it would be no good getting an off-peak train to Marlow because I wouldn’t even get there before midday. On top of this the train drivers were working to rule and refusing to do overtime, meaning trains could be cancelled at very short notice. So, even though I didn’t want to have to drive I decided this would be the best thing to do. The weather people had promised me a day of sunny intervals and it certainly started that way. I got up at 05:45 and by 06:15 I was on the road. I got to Bourne End station just after 08:00 and parked my car right outside the station. Why didn’t I drive to Marlow station? Answer – Marlow station doesn’t have a car park. It’s about ½ mile to the car parks in town. Psychologically, after reaching my end point today my legs would be tired, I’d be hungry and I would want to get home as quickly as possible. Bourne End station comes before Marlow, so I could get off the train here and jump straight into my car – no ½ mile walk! So, I got the 08:14 train to Marlow and fresh as a daisy walked from the station to the river. I then headed off back in the direction of Bourne End and reached the marina there by 09:15. Looking downstream in the direction of Bourne End The shuttle train going backwards and forwards between Marlow & Bourne End Looking back upstream towards Marlow Bourne End Marina From Bourne End, the path continues a short distance to Bourne End Railway Bridge. A footbridge was bolted onto the side of it in 1992 in order to take the future Thames Path across the river. The footbridge replaced the Spade Oak Ferry which crossed about ½ mile back upstream. The Thames Path was formally opened in 1996. I crossed the bridge and continued my walk towards Cookham Bridge. On the opposite side of the river was Riversdale, a private estate of seriously expensive looking houses. Jealous? Me? You bet! Footbridge was bolted onto the side of the railway bridge to replace a ferry Lovely view back upstream towards Bourne End Houses on the Riversdale private estate Approaching Cookham Bridge Cookham Bridge At Cookham Bridge the Thames Path was forced to leave the river for about a mile, initially taking to the streets of Cookham and then along a path in a small wooded area. I emerged into bright sunlight with the Cliveden Estate opposite me. The path between here and Boulter’s Lock hugs the riverbank. With all the trees in full leaf you’re under a canopy with the sun shining through it – amazing on a day like this. Holy Trinity Church Cookham Cookham Spring Cottage Cliveden. Linked to the Profumo scandal in the early 1960s I love walking down here when the sun is shining through the trees I got to Boulter’s Lock by 10:30 and decided to take a short break at the café. After coffee and a flapjack I was ready for the off again and soon reached Maidenhead Bridge. The path crossed the bridge and then continued towards Brunel’s Maidenhead Railway Bridge AKA The Sounding Arch due to the echo you can hear when you stand underneath it. The bridge has a plaque advising that the brick arches are the widest and flattest in the world. Boulter's Lock Continuing towards Maidenhead Maidenhead! Maidenhead Bridge Brunel's Maidenhead Railway Bridge After walking along a private road the path continued alongside the river with views across it towards some fabulous houses in Bray. Looking back towards Maidenhead That's my house! Bray Lock came up next. I couldn’t help but notice it was looking more colourful than I’d ever seen it before. Then I noticed a small sign advising that the Environment Agency was working in partnership with Squires Garden Centres. That explained it! Colourful Bray Lock Bray Lock & Weir The huge bridge carrying the M4 came up next. ½ mile after this came Summerleaze Bridge AKA The Cut Footbridge. The bridge is now a footbridge linking Dorney with Bray. It was originally built as a gravel conveyor belt to take gravel from the construction of nearby Dorney Lake. Summerleaze Ltd were one of the lead partners in the construction of the lake. Rather than clog up the village of Dorney with loads of lorries carrying the excavated gravel away, it was carried across the river to the company’s plant in Bray. The M4 in the background Under the M4 Summerleaze Bridge Summerleaze Bridge Just past Summerleaze Bridge is a footpath to the left that takes you to Dorney. When it’s open to the public (free), there is also an entrance to Dorney Lake. The lake is owned by Eton College and was used for the 2012 London Olympic and Paralympic Games in 2012 when it was referred to as Eaton Dorney. The lake runs roughly parallel to the river but is hidden from view by trees. I knew the site would be closed to mere mortals until September, so I got a sneaky drone photo or two of the lake. At 2.2km in length, walking round the lake is an enjoyable little walk in its own right. Dorney Lake. Owned by Eton College After walking on the path in a canopy of trees for the length of Dorney Lake, the river took a 90 degree turn to the left in the direction of Eton. Soon I reached Boveney Lock which had had the ‘Squires Garden Centres’ treatment but still managed to look a little scruffy I thought! Despite my misgivings, as it was about 1:15 I stopped to eat my sandwich and have a bit of a rest. Again, this is great with the sun shining through the trees Narrowboat chugging towards Maidenhead Redundant Church of St Mary Magdalene, Boveney. Grade 1 listed so can't be demolished Boveney Lock After lunch I set off again towards Eton, just over a mile away. The Brocas is a large grass meadow on the Eton side of the river. You get a great view of Windsor Castle & St George’s Chapel from here. It’s a very popular spot for people relaxing and having picnics etc. It’s also a popular site for mooring boats. I reached The Brocas about 2 o’clock. I’d completed 14 miles and still had plenty of stamina to continue. So, after topping up my water bottles in Eton, I crossed over the bridge to Windsor and headed off along the Thames Path in the direction of Romney Lock. Bridge carrying the shuttle railway between Windsor & Slough The Brocas Eton Footbridge linking Windsor with Eton Romney Lock After the lock, the path continued through Home Park Public alongside the river before being forced off at Victoria Bridge where it crossed the river. The whole of Home Park belongs to the Crown Estate but Queen Victoria gave 30 hectares of it to the people of Windsor for recreation purposes. Beyond Victoria Bridge as far as the next bridge (Albert Bridge), the land is also owned by the Crown Estate and is strictly private. The King & Camilla Parker-Bowles want us trapsing over as little of their land as possible! Prince William & Kate live in Adelaide Cottage. Princess Eugenie & her husband now live in Frogmore Cottage, after Harry & Meghan were evicted. Both of these properties lie in this private area of Home Park. Obviously, I use the term ‘Cottage’ extremely loosely!! Anyway, back to Victoria Bridge. After crossing it to the common people’s side of the river and walking along a path with tall vegetation on both sides I emerged onto the streets of Datchet, a very attractive village. After about ¾ mile the Thames Path took a right back down to the river again and almost immediately reached Albert Bridge. The path crossed the bridge and very soon entered a cut leading to Old Windsor Lock. The cut takes out a sizeable meander of the river and when it was dug it created Ham Island. There are 37 private houses on Ham Island today. Windsor Castle Victoria Bridge - not really a looker The private part of Home Park The river at Datchet Datchet Albert Bridge Albert Bridge Blackberries to keep me going Old Windsor Lock Another ¾ mile and I arrived at Runnymede by the Bells of Ouzeley pub. I’d been up since 05:45, it was 16:10 and I had 3 miles to go to reach Staines Bridge. My foot was aching a bit and I was sorely tempted to call in for a pint and stop for the day. However, that would mean I’d have to get back here to start the next stage – not the easiest place to reach by public transport. So, I carried on and instead stopped at the National Trust tea room at the Magna Carta site where I had coffee and cake. The sky was getting rather dark now and I was certain it was going to rain but thankfully it held off. Some house envy across the river at Wraysbury A family of coots Further house envy at Wraysbury Should I or shouldn't I stop here? I decide to carry on once I've had my cake! I rushed to the Magna Carta Monument and took the mandatory photos before making my way back across Runnymede Pleasure Ground to the river. The Magna Carta Monument The Magna Carta Monument The Queen woz 'ere! Statue of the Queen commemorating 800 years of the signing of Magna Carta Looking downstream towards Bell Weir Lock Lock keeper's cottage at Bell Weir Lock - more Magna Carta stuff Lock keeper's cottage at Bell Weir Lock - more Magna Carta stuff Very soon after Bell Weir Lock came the 2 massive road bridges carrying the M25 and A30 but collectively known as Runnymede Bridge. These bridges carry 14 lanes of traffic. After passing under the bridges I was now inside the M25 ring. Less than 1 mile further on and about 17:45 I reached Staines Bridge in the county of Surrey! The earlier Runnymede Bridge This is the longest walk beneath bridges of the Thames Definitely 2 bridges The newer Runnymede bridge - 14 traffic lanes across both And we've made it! Staines Bridge Looking downstream from Staines Bridge....but that's Stage 9 Phew! What a walk. Now came the small matter of getting back to my car at Bourne End station. I really don’t like Staines-upon-Thames, mainly because its railway station is nearly ¾ mile from Staines Bridge. I really hate the walk to get there. In any case, getting a train from there would result in a quite convoluted journey. I wanted to walk as few steps as possible, so crossed the bridge and went to the nearest bus stop. After 15 minutes a bus came that would take me to Slough station. This gave me the best part of an hour of sitting down to recover. However, once I got off the bus both my legs were almost seized and I hobbled into the station. The rest of the journey was quick and easy – Elizabeth Line to Maidenhead and then the Marlow Donkey train to Bourne End, where thanks to my forward planning this morning, I was able to virtually pour myself from the train straight into my car. After stopping at my local McDonalds for a wonderfully nutritious and healthy meal I think I got home about 10 o’clock. I’d covered 22 miles of the Thames today but my FitBit said I’d walked almost 25 miles. At the end of Stage 8 I’d now walked 133 miles of the river, so 99 miles to go to reach the sea at Grain in 6 stages – easy!!

After a couple of days off, I was ready to set off again. Reading is easy to get to by train from where I live in Northamptonshire – even more so since the full opening of the Elizabeth line last year. The only thing is that on a weekday I can only get an off-peak ticket after 09:00. So, with the trains running to timetable I arrived at Reading station by 11:15. My optimistic hope for today was to reach Bourne End. It was pretty overcast but at least it was dry. Caversham Lock - a 1 minute walk from the start Bridge over the River Kennet. Thankfully not classed as a Thames bridge! Thames Valley Park on the site of the former Earley Power Station Sonning Lock I reached Sonning Bridge, about 3 miles away, by 12:15. When I walked the Thames Path last year, I couldn’t help but notice what looked like the front of a red letterbox that someone had attached to a buttress between 2 arches of the bridge. I couldn’t quite believe what I was seeing! After Googling this when I got home I learned that this was the latest prank of an artist going by the name of Impro. Previous pranks included a black door with a letterbox, knocker and keyhole resembling those of 10 Downing Street and an old-fashioned dial telephone attached to the bridge, above which was a sign which read “Emergency Flood Line”. In view of the above I was keen to find out what I’d discover attached to the bridge this year. It was a urinal! With all the current publicity against Thames Water and the amount of raw sewage being pumped into rivers I shouldn’t have been too surprised at this. What did surprise me was the response to a tweet I posted on Twitter (or rather ‘X’ as Elon Musk has decided it should now be known as). As I write this, my tweet has been viewed almost 96,000 times. I suspect this is all down to a certain Mr F Sharkey who commented on it. Feargal Sharkey is a singer who was a member of The Undertones (My Perfect Cousin, Here Comes The Summer, Jimmy Jimmy) in the 1970s/80s and went on to have a successful solo career (A Good Heart). He has subsequently become a figurehead for the campaign to prevent water companies dumping untreated sewage into UK waterways and coasts. Sonning Bridge Thames Path crosses the bridge & over this backwater footbridge Yes - this is a urinal! A really beautiful bridge OMG - almost 96,000 views Ah - that's why! The Thames Path crossed Sonning Bridge and in so doing I crossed from Berkshire back into Oxfordshire briefly. I continued along the original tow path towards Shiplake. Shiplake Lock is a pretty lock and I decided to eat my lunch sandwich there. A fellow walker, Maggie, had the same idea and we got talking. She too was walking the Thames Path but camping as she went; hence the large backpack she was carrying on her shoulders. With all the rotten weather we’d had in July I felt rather sorry for her. After eating my lunch and taking some drone photos I continued towards Henley. Looking downstream towards Shiplake Shiplake Lock Shiplake Lock with a Twyford - Henley railway bridge in the background The official Thames Path takes you through Lower Shiplake but there is an alternative right of way that takes you alongside the river but adds over a mile to the walk. The right of way meets the Thames Path just before Shiplake Station. Had it been a lovely sunny day and I’d not been pressed for time I would probably have walked by the river but as it was still overcast, I decided to take the Thames Path and save a mile. Lower Shiplake & Shiplake have some stunning properties, many of which are hidden from public gaze by large wooden gates. The average property price in this area is £1.5 million! The final property in Shiplakethat the Thames Path passes before rejoining the river is Thames Side Court. This property was (or maybe still is) owned by Urs Schwarzenbach, a Swiss billionaire whose name crops up all over the place in this area. He also owns Culham Court, paying £10 million OVER the asking price in 2006 just to get hold of it. I would be passing this later today on the other side of Henley. Anyway, back to Thames Side Court. Mr Schwarzenbach had a model railway built in the grounds complete with a 100% accurate scale model of St Moritz station. Whilst you can’t see the house, you do get to see part of the railway and station. After lunch it's onwards towards Henley Thames Path crosses the branch line to Henley at Shiplake Station Part of the Schwarzenbach empire. The grass really is this green Thames Side Court model railway Back in the real world, I was soon alongside the river again on the final push into Henley. I was quickly faced with steel barriers blocking my way onto Marsh Lock Footbridge. Until May 2022 the Thames Path used this bridge as a means of getting onto the Marsh Lock island and off again. It really is a lovely bridge but due to safety concerns, the Environment Agency closed the Shiplake half of it meaning a detour would be required to reach Henley. The Schwarzenbach family quickly stepped in and provided what should have been a temporary detour over their land, even constructing a wooden bridge to enable walkers to cross a small stream. With no progress from the Environment Agency in getting the footbridge repaired however, the Schwarzenbach’s gave notice that the detour over their land would cease in April 2023. Thankfully a change of heart saved the day – for now at least. Walkers can still access the lock island from the Henley side of the footbridge. One of the properties on the massive Park Place Estate Marsh Lock footbridge from the Shiplake end Walkers can still get to the lock from the Henley end Unsafe bridge! Marsh Lock The weir at Marsh Lock Before reaching the centre of Henley I walked past the River & Rowing Museum whose Rowing Gallery is now known as the Schwarzenbach International Rowing Gallery, thanks to a hefty donation from that man Urs! It was now almost 4 o’clock and Bourne End was another 12 miles away, including the ½ mile detour I knew I’d have to make at Temple. I didn’t want to leave things too late as I needed to get back to Northamptonshire and there was a rail strike the next day; sometimes services shut down early on the eve of a strike and I didn’t want to get stuck. With my foot starting to ache a bit I had a reality check and decided my target should be Marlow, just over 9 miles away. Beautiful front garden Henley Bridge. Thames Path crosses the river here After crossing Henley Bridge I was now on my favourite section of the Thames Path, heading towards Marlow. Such a shame that there was so much cloud. Slowly but surely the river and meadows between Henley and Temple Island a mile downstream were returning to normal after the Henley Regatta 4 weeks earlier. Just before reaching Hambleden Lock I passed The Lockdown Lodge, a riverside pop-up bar and restaurant that opens for a few weeks around this time of year. For 2023 it is open until August 13th. I can thoroughly recommend stopping here although this year I carried on. After Hambleden Lock the path continued by the side of the river through a field of cows. At the end of the field, the path left the river and headed into Aston. Henley Regatta July 1st It's just not the same when it's cloudy - July 28th The Lockdown Lodge pop-up by Hambleden Lock Hambleden Lock - my favourite Thames lock The Flower Pot Hotel at Aston is decidedly quirky. The former landlord had put together Britain’s largest collection of cased fish along with a few stuffed birds and animals. Not to everyone’s taste it has to be said. I’d heard that he retired in September 2022 and he’d said that any that the incoming landlord didn’t want would be sold off at auction. As I’d not stopped at The Lockdown Lodge, I decided to have a sneaky pint here. The pub had been redecorated and the cased fish population substantially reduced. The garden was also much tidier and more inviting. With my eye on the clock, I quickly downed my pint. I think those that didn't make it ended up stuffed in the pub! Garden is now more inviting The Flower Pot Hotel's fish population Fish & pheasant but the stuffed foxes have gone After Aston the Thames Path takes you for a walk through the Culham Court Estate which includes a Grade II listed mansion with the greenest grass you’ve ever seen and a huge deer park. Needless to say, our man Urs owns all this but it’s not clear if he actually lives in the mansion. I absolutely love this place. The views from the mansion towards the river must be amazing. Culham Court Cricket Ground This path is at it's most colourful in spring Culham Court Just a few of the many white deer at Culham At the end of the deer park, the Thames Path left the estate and once again I was back in the real world heading towards Hurley. At some point between Aston and here I left Oxfordshire again and was back in Berkshire. As I was getting tired now, it seemed like reaching Hurley Lock from the deer park had taken an eternity but it was only about 40 minutes. Medmenham Abbey - now a private home Not very secret if you tell everyone it's secret! Looking downstream at Hurley Hurley Lock. Bit late for coffee & cake Looking down from the footbridge at Hurley Lock I knew that after the lock, Temple Bridge, that would ordinarily be the last bridge I would have to cross today, was less than half a mile away. Between the lock and the bridge, I passed a load of very impressive Dutch barges all moored up alongside the path. There was also a celebration of some sort going on in a nearby marquee. I assumed the barges and the celebration were connected. I crossed paths with a lady who was very impressed that I was taking photos with my drone. She advised me it was a UK rally of The Barge Association taking place that weekend. She was looking forward to the next day when she’d be able to go on board the assembled barges with a view to maybe buying one of her own. Dutch barges moored up for the rally Very smart Dutch barge Very smart Dutch barge Looking back upstream towards Hurley Lock Temple Bridge is a beautiful footbridge crossing the river. It was specifically built for walkers in 1989 and was one of the final pieces of the jigsaw needed to create the Thames Path National Trail. Temple Footbridge Temple Footbridge After crossing the bridge, you would ordinarily then follow the tow path all the way into Marlow. I knew it had recently been closed on safety grounds and that a detour had been put in place to avoid the bridge. The detour takes you down lanes and then along the streets of Temple and Bisham before eventually reaching Marlow. The detour adds ½ mile to the walk and part of it is along an unlit road with no pavements and a double bend for good measure. Thankfully only 2 cars passed me on this road. Temple Bridge closed on safety grounds No signs - you have to use your nous for the detour Again no signs Temple Mill Island that you normally see from the other side of the river Eventually you come out at Bisham Bisham Abbey National Sports Centre Nearly there. What was so special about Hatfield? I reached Marlow Bridge shortly before 19:30 on The Compleat Angler side of the river. The river here is the border between Berkshire and Buckinghamshire. After crossing Marlow Bridge into Buckinghamshire, I still had another ½ mile to walk to the railway station. The train service that runs on the Marlow branch line is known locally as "The Marlow Donkey". The pub of the same name is right by the station. I was tempted to have another sneaky pint but by now all I really wanted to do was to get home. 4 trains and almost 3 hours later I was back indoors. That was a long day! Hooray! Marlow at last Marlow Bridge & The Compleat Angler Marlow The Marlow Donkey The official distance covered along the river today was 17.4 miles but my FitBit told me that in total I’d walked over 21 miles. Having completed 7 of my targeted 14 stages I’d now completed 111 miles of the Thames with 121 miles to go.

Having completed the previous stage with no ill effects, a week later I thought I’d have a go at the next stage. I was hoping I’d be able to reach Reading but with an official distance of 18 miles this would be the longest stage so far; probably not very sensible after 2 months off with a foot injury but I had to try. To reach Reading would be very good psychologically as that would mean I’d be over halfway along the Thames Path; not halfway through my challenge of course because of the small matter of the 47 miles along the England Coast Path between Woolwich & Grain. If I got to Reading today I would no longer have any reliance on buses until the final 2 stages of the England Coast Path. This would make planning my walks that little bit easier. In order to avoid as much traffic as possible I left my house at 06:15 and drove to Didcot Parkway station. From there I got a train to Cholsey and then a bus to Wallingford. With public transport behaving itself I was in the centre of Wallingford just after 9 o’clock. I was wearing trainers with my orthotics. It was quite sunny and not especially warm – perfect conditions for walking. Wallingford Market Place St Leonard's Church Wallingford I was soon on the path and walking alongside the river which was very peaceful at this time of day apart from a few rowers. I walked under Winterbrook Bridge, an unattractive but necessary evil as it is part of the Wallingford bypass. It’s possible to cross the river at this bridge rather than walk under it to then join The Ridgeway National Trail. The Ridgeway continues to Goring on the opposite bank of the river. The Ridgeway route is more attractive than the Thames Path to Goring and it's the same distance but I decided I should really take the Thames Path and therefore continued under the bridge. Looking downstream from Wallingford towards Cholsey Winterbrook Bridge After a while the path entered Cholsey Marsh nature reserve. Much of the path through the reserve is enclosed with very tall vegetation and after all the recent rain it was quite muddy in places. My trainers weren’t the ideal footwear to be wearing! Because it’s so enclosed you don’t actually get to see much of the river. It’s one of the reasons I prefer The Ridgeway route. However, at the end of the reserve I reached Moulsford Railway Bridge. This is a Brunel bridge that carries the Great Western Railway main line across the river. In fact it’s a pair of parallel bridges, the second one built about 50 years after the first as a result of increased traffic. The bridge is skewed at an angle of 60 degrees to the river. Very pretty and peaceful Cholsey Marsh nature reserve - not pretty but then they're not especially meant to be! Looking across to The Ridgeway National Trail at North Stoke Moulsford Railway Bridge Moulsford Railway Bridge - actually a pair of bridges After passing under the bridge the path left the river and took to the streets of Moulsford for about 0.7 miles, rejoining at the Beetle & Wedge pub. It was only 10:30 so too early for a sneaky pint! The 2 mile section from the pub into Streatley was really pleasant with views in the distance of the North Wessex Downs. Path rejoins the river at the Beetle & Wedge Beetle & Wedge Looking downstream towards Goring Love this house! Cleeve Lock St Mary's Church Streatley At Streatley I crossed the road bridge to Goring. Goring is a very pretty village; no wonder George Michael chose to have a house here. It had taken 2 hours to get here from Wallingford – about 7 miles. Bearing in mind the slip-sliding in Cholsey Marsh and the time for taking pics I was pretty pleased with this pace. Best of all I had no pain or discomfort in my foot. After getting my drone out to take a few photos I set off again. The road bridge connecting Streatley with Goring Goring Lock & Weir Goring - what a pretty village Unusual bridge connecting the 2 villages Mill Cottage - the house where George Michael lived Just before Gatehampton Railway Bridge, the path passes through a small nature reserve called Little Meadow Nature Reserve. I couldn’t help but notice it had been newly surfaced making it very easy underfoot. The red brick Gatehampton Railway Bridge was constructed at the same time as Moulsford Railway Bridge and the two bridges share a great deal in common. Looking downstream after leaving Goring Heading towards Gatehampton Bridge Little Meadow Nature Reserve newly surfaced & tidied Gatehampton Railway Bridge - very similar to Moulsford Pillbox at Gatehampton Shortly after the railway bridge the path turned left away from the river to begin the first of two climbs in today’s walk. For nearly a mile the path climbed through Hartslock Wood on the edge of the Chiltern Hills. There were glimpses now and again of the Thames below. The walk through the wood culminated in Hartley Steps, a particularly steep (well in Thames Path terms anyway) down and up. From what I’ve read, a local resident Eric Hartley (no relation to J R Hartley of Fly Fishing fame!) campaigned Oxfordshire County Council to get the ramp and 71 steps alongside dug into the hard chalk to make life safer and easier for walkers, cyclists and horse riders. Hartslock Wood Hartslock Wood Hartley Steps on the way down Hartley Steps on the way up Hartley Steps at the top After the woods, a seemingly endless track brought me out at the top of Whitchurch High Street. At the bottom of the village the path passed through the churchyard, emerging near Whitchurch Toll Bridge. This is the second toll bridge across the river, the first being at Swinford Bridge. At 60p for a car it’s a lot more expensive than the 5p charged to cross Swinford Bridge. By crossing Whitchurch Bridge I was leaving Oxfordshire and entering Pangbourne in the ceremonial county of Berkshire. I’d first entered Oxfordshire about 500 yards after leaving Lechlade and this meant that I’d walked almost 64 miles of the Thames in Oxfordshire. Whitchurch Whitchurch Thames Path goes through the churchyard Looking from Oxfordshire across to West Berkshire Pedestrians originally had to pay to cross Whitchurch Bridge Pedestrians free but cars 60p Whitchurch Bridge is stunning Looking downstream with Pangbourne Meadow on the right Goodbye Oxfordshire Looking at the bridge from the Berkshire side of the river Whitchurch Lock is unique along the Thames in as much as there is no pedestrian access to it. You can see boats entering the lock cut from the bridge but you can’t see the lock itself. Today I had my drone with me so I was able to view the lock and weir from above. Pangbourne Meadow is a large grassy area with plenty of benches overlooking the bridge and the river. The Parish Council manages it for the enjoyment of all. I chose to stop here to eat my sandwich and take a rest. Barge sailing into the lock cut Whitchurch Lock & Weir Whitchurch Lock After lunch I continued along the path towards Mapledurham Lock. This is a lovely section to walk, with wide open meadows and the Chiltern Hills on the opposite bank. Between Pangbourne & Mapledurham Between Pangbourne & Mapledurham After Mapledurham Lock, the path is forced to leave the river and continues for just over a mile through Purley-on-Thames. Purley is a village but is essentially a suburb of Reading. I mentioned that the walk through Hartslock Wood provided the first of two climbs on the stage. Purley provides the second climb through a large, well-maintained estate of mainly detached houses. The estate was built between the railway and the road and finally emerges at the busy A329. The Thames Path crosses the railway twice before returning to the towpath between the river and the railway. The climb up through this housing estate in Purley Officially now reached Reading Thames Path crosses the GWR main line Back on the towpath the next mile was pretty uninspiring with tall vegetation left and right, metal fencing keeping trespassers away from the railway lines and the thunder of main line trains going by. Every now and again I passed small groups of people puffing away at weed and it was all ever so slightly unsettling. Imagine my surprise then when I came across a scantily clad young lady with a gun in her hand staring at me! Fortunately it was only Lara Croft, so that was OK! The Thames is on the left hand side & trains on the right Imagine my initial surprise! Thankfully everything left and right opened up and aside from the Thames Path signs still in need of attention since I was here a year ago, I was walking along the section of path that back in May 2020 at the end of lockdown 1, I felt GPs should prescribe to patients struggling with mental health issues resulting from lockdown. It’s such a lovely section of the path. As I continued along the path, I saw a gentleman feeding a pair of adult swans. As you do, I said ‘hello’ to him and we got talking about swans and cygnets. Having become a bit of a Swan Upping nerd myself we had a lot in common. However, he was on another level to me, having a list of the tag references of all the swans in this section of the river! He asked if I’d like a copy of his list but I politely declined. To be honest I was more concerned with getting to Reading station and a train back to Didcot Parkway. Anyway, we said me might see each other in a year’s time for Swan Upping 2024. That's better! I wish the Council would fix this sign Family of swans I was now on the home run and reached Reading Bridge just before 5 o’clock. I’d achieved my target for the day and whilst my foot was aching, I was pretty happy. My Fitbit told me that I’d walked about 20 miles. After 6 stages I’d covered an official distance of 94 miles. So, to complete my challenge I have to walk another 138 miles in 8 stages – an average of 17.25 miles per stage. I feel this is very much achievable. For some reason I always end up taking a photo of this property Cavendish Bridge in the background Christchurch Bridge Yay! Reading Bridge

I've now walked the Thames Path 4 times. This year was the toughest due to my foot injury which plagued me throughout the challenge. However, this made my arrival at the finish in Grain on a sunny afternoon all the more special. Once again, a huge "Thank you!" to everyone who supported me and donated to my chosen charity - Royal Papworth Hospital Charity. You helped me raise a lot more than I was hoping for. I raised £831 for the charity in the end and formally handed this amount over at the hospital. Thank you also to Samantha Civil, owner of Rushden Podiatry who diagnosed and treated my achilles and foot injuries, enabling me to complete my challenge! Handing over the donations at Royal Papworth Hospital With a little artistic licence I've put together the following video covering the start of this year's challenge on a misty May morning through to my arrival at the sea in August. The England Coast Path (ECP) section of the river from Woolwich to the sea reflects how the river is used today. Containerisation of sea freight led to the final closure of all London's docks by 1981 because the river just wasn't deep enough to accommodate the huge container ships. The landscape of the ECP section is also completely different, being mainly marshland. Whilst this section may not have the pretty locks and villages of the Thames Path, I find it fascinating for what it does have. Chapters 1 & 2 of the video cover the Thames Path section and chapters 3 & 4 cover the ECP section. The video looks best if you're able to change your YouTube quality settings to 2160p/4K. And finally, I think this will be the last time I walk the Thames end to end but wouldn't it be a great challenge to walk it in 13 or even 12 rather than 14 stages! 😃 UPDATE April 2024. I've decided I do want to challenge myself to walk Sea to Source this year in 12 stages. Plan to start in June. UPDATE January 2026. In the end I completed Sea to Source in 11 stages in 2024. In April 2025 I then walked Source to Sea one more time in 12 stages.

When I started this year's challenge in May, my left foot was already giving me a bit of grief. I wasn't that concerned and thought (hoped actually) I'd be able to quickly shake it off. I knew deep down though that I was probably only fooling myself. By the time I'd completed stage 4 at Abingdon and hobbled to the bus stop, I knew the game was up and I would have to seek attention for what I then thought was plantar fasciitis. After a month of visits to an osteopath, things weren't any better. Being really impatient I decided I'd try a podiatrist instead. This turned out to be a great decision! Samantha Civil, owner of Rushden Podiatry, diagnosed achilles tendinopathy as well as mild plantar fasciitis. She understood how desperate I was to get going again and came up with a detailed treatment plan for me. After sticking religiously to the exercises she'd prescribed for 4 weeks and feeling so down about having had to stop my challenge, I felt I had to get going again. I had no idea how far I'd be able to walk but my hope was that I'd be able to get to Wallingford at least, an official distance of 13.2 miles. I'd stayed overnight in Didcot and by 8 o'clock I'd parked my car in Abingdon, bought a sandwich for lunch and was ready for the off. I was wearing trainers rather than walking shoes as recommended by Samantha and I knew from the terrain that they would be fine. It was a sunny start to the day and it felt so good to be walking along the Thames Path again! Having said this, the first 5 miles of this walk aren't desperately interesting, especially as they include walking alongside 2 man-made cuts - Culham Cut and Clifton Cut. Both of these were excavated to make navigation for boats easier than following the natural course of the river. In the case of Culham Cut, this also meant the end of having to pay tolls. 1 mile into the walk - footbridge over the backwater at Culham Bridge looking down towards Culham I reached Culham Lock and Sutton Bridge in good time and pain free. The single arch Sutton Bridge over Culham Cut is actually an extension to the main Sutton Bridge that spans the original navigation of the river. I took a wander to have a quick look at the main bridge. The original navigation is far prettier than the cut! Culham Cut with the lock in the distance Sutton Bridge across Culham Cut The main Sutton Bridge crosses the original navigation of the river Appleford Railway Bridge carrying trains between Didcot & Banbury via Oxford Appleford Railway Bridge carrying trains between Didcot & Banbury via Oxford 5 miles into the walk and I reached Clifton Lock looking the best I've ever seen it. To my mind this is the prettiest and best kept lock on the Thames. This is all down to the gardening skills and dedication of Curtis the lock keeper and his wife. It's rumoured that Curtis' dad was a big fan of a certain Mr Mayfield! I've been walking past this lock each year since 2020 and each time I've seen the gardens looking better than they did the year before. Curtis sells plants, ice creams and cold drinks and all profits go towards planting for the next year. He seems to have a perfect job - lucky chap! Clifton Lock September 2020 Clifton Lock July 2023 Curtis the green-fingered lock keeper! Clifton Lock July 2023 Clifton Lock July 2023 Clifton Lock July 2023 My shirt attracted a butterfly After leaving Clifton Lock I quickly came to Clifton Hampden Bridge. This bridge was designed by Sir Gilbert Scott who was a prolific architect who was influenced by the Gothic Revival style. He famously designed the Albert Memorial and the Midland Grand Hotel at St Pancras Station. This road bridge is unusual along the Thames in that it was built using red bricks. The Thames Path crosses the river here and continues towards Dorchester. Clifton Hampden Bridge Looking upstream from Clifton Hampden Bridge Still pain-free, after crossing the bridge I continued alongside the river towards Day's Lock. This section has become much more interesting since the Earth Trust's 'River of Life II' project got underway as part of their Water and Wetlands programme. This has created new wetlands along the banks of the river, attracting fish, birds and mammals. New ponds created by the Earth Trust What a lot of geese! Lots of house envy across the river at Burcot The Dirty Water Campaign making it clear who it believes is responsible for the polluted river All the way from Clifton Hampden to Day's Lock, the trees of Round Hill, 1 of the 2 hills that make up the Wittenham Clumps could be seen in the background getting ever nearer. The views from the top of The Clumps are quite spectacular; in fact my favourite view of the Thames is that seen from the The Clumps Approaching Day's Lock with The Clumps in the background The lock keeper's house at Day's Lock & 1 of the 2 bridges comprising Little Wittenham Bridge The next 2½ miles to Shillingford Bridge are always a little uninspiring because the river is obscured by trees in numerous places and also the path takes to the busy A4074 for about 700 yards. By the time I reached Shillingford Bridge my foot was definitely starting to ache a bit. At Shillingford Bridge I was given advance notification of a diversion at Benson, just over 1 mile ahead. This diversion is necessary following the closure of the walkway across Benson Weir in November 2022 on safety grounds. I was already aware of this and I was also aware of a new ferry service that started in May 2023 that I assume will continue for as long as it's needed. The ferry takes people from the marina at Benson across the river to Benson Lock. Shillingford Bridge - confusing sign if you weren't already aware!! The diversion extends all the way into Wallingford Shillingford Bridge. A fallen tree that had been obscuring this view for years has finally been removed. Yippee! When I reached Benson I met up with Wendy, who amongst all the other things she manages to fit into her life, is a volunteer for the Thames Path National Trail. After it became clear earlier in the day that I'd at least be able to reach Benson, we arranged to meet at the Benson Waterfront Café - without doubt the best café along the Thames Path. For so many reasons it is understandably always busy and today was no exception. Wendy knows more about the Thames Path than anyone I've met. She also knows that my trademark refreshments at the Waterfront are a pint of San Miguel and a slice of raspberry ripple cake and ordered these without having to ask me! I'm just glad I hadn't already eaten the sandwich I'd bought for my lunch because that slice of cake was huge! San Miguel & raspberry ripple cake - mandatory at the Waterfront Café! I decided that I would make Wallingford the final destination for this stage of my challenge. Wallingford is about 1½ miles from Benson. Rather than take the diversionary route from Benson I was keen to take advantage of the ferry across to the lock which would then allow me to follow the Thames Path. Wendy had business in Wallingford that afternoon so we both took the ferry. The ferry is owned by a local vintage boat hire company based at Benson Marina. The owner bought the boat on eBay specifically for the purpose of using it to transport people across the river from the lock! Whilst the closure of the weir walkway is only meant to be temporary, in practice it could well extend beyond 2 years. A family of swans we passed by served as a reminder that the 3rd week of July is Swan Upping week - the time of the year when the annual census of the swan population between Sunbury-on-Thames and Abingdon takes place. The Swan Uppers would reach Benson on Friday morning and this family would then be 'upped'. I've written a post on my 2021 experience of Swan Upping that explains what it's all about and the people involved - https://www.mythames.co.uk/swanupping Enjoying our ferry ride across the Thames Benson Lock & Weir in the background & a family of swans that would be 'upped' later in the week The good ship Ferret A godsend and well worth the money I walked the final 1½ miles with Wendy to Wallingford Bridge and then into the town centre before we went our separate ways. I got the bus back to Abingdon to pick up my car. Whilst the official distance covered along the Thames was 13.2 miles, as is always the case I had actually walked further than this. My FitBit said I'd covered over 15 miles. The bottom of my foot by my heel was aching - a classic symptom of plantar fasciitis but I didn't have the real pain I'd previously been experiencing and which caused me to call a halt in May. The next morning (Tuesday), the tops of my legs were a little stiff which is hardly surprising after having done very little walking in the last 2 months. I felt really pleased that I hadn't made matters worse which I suspected would have incurred the wrath of Samantha the podiatrist! As mentioned above, this was Swan Upping week. I'd stayed over on Monday night and I'd also booked a room for Tuesday night so that I could follow the Swan Uppers for a couple of days. I walked a further 10 miles on Tuesday and 6 miles on Wednesday with no real ill effects. I decided however that I shouldn't overdo things and will wait a few more days before embarking on Stage 6 of my challenge. In the meantime, Samantha has supplied me with custom orthotics that should certainly help with my full recovery.

In order to get an early start for my first walk, I drove to the Swindon Central Premier Inn the night before. I'd booked in for 2 nights. I was promised a sunny start to Sunday, so was a little upset to find I woke up to a bit of a pea-souper! Never mind. I had my cooked breakfast, got all my bits together and then drove to Kemble Station where I parked my car for the day. The plan was to walk from the station to the Source and then to Cricklade. I'd then get the bus back to Swindon, the train to Kemble and finally drive back to the hotel in Swindon. Although this sounds rather convoluted, there was thinking behind doing things this way. The first train on a Sunday from Swindon to Kemble isn't until 09:35, whereas doing things this way I was at Kemble station by about 08:00. I'd been forewarned that there was still significant flooding in the Ewen area and that the path in general was very muddy. I therefore thought that wellies might be a better option than my normal walking shoes and chose to wear these. I walked from Kemble Station to the Source, took loads of photos (as you do) of the fingerpost and stone and I was then on my way in the mist towards Cricklade The famous fingerpost at the start/end of the Thames Path National Trail Trewsbury Mead carpeted in buttercups & dandelion heads Shortly after leaving Ewen it became difficult to distinguish between the river and the path but I was feeling smug as I was wearing my wellies, so no worries about getting wet feet. This smugness was however short lived as I had a 'Vicar of Dibley' moment, taking a step that resulted in flood water spilling over the top of my wellies! Bugger! Warning signs of trouble ahead Yuk! John wades the Thames! After reaching the end of the flooding I emptied my wellies, wrung out my socks and put on a dry pair. That's a lot of water! With my tail now between my legs I continued towards Somerford Keynes and then Ashton Keynes. The going was now surprisingly good. The path heading towards Ashton Keynes On reaching Ashton Keynes I chose to stop to eat my sandwich and take a bit of a rest. Ashton Keynes is such a pretty village. Ashton Keynes Wisteria Duly refreshed I continued on my way through the Cotswold Water Park - a seemingly endless number of former gravel pits now filled with water. Whilst the path was quite muddy in places it was still easily passable. Water skier on one of the Cotswold Water Park lakes Water skier on one of the Cotswold Water Park lakes The water park always seems to go on forever but eventually I reached the point where the Thames Path takes you through North Meadow in Cricklade. I was now faced with a dilemma; do I follow the path, which by all accounts was still flooded, or do I take the easy option along the disused railway line that brings you out at the top end of Cricklade? I bottled out and chose easy! Do I risk the flooding in North Meadow? .........or take the dead cert dry route? At the end of the old railway line in Cricklade I walked through a couple of housing estates and emerged where I would have come out had I risked North Meadow. In Cricklade back on the Thames Path In case of any doubt, what looks like a stream below this bridge is the Mighty Thames! Walk complete and 12.2 miles of the Thames Path under my belt. I timed my arrival in Cricklade almost to perfection. Buses back to Swindon run every 2 hours on a Sunday. I reached the bus stop at about 14:40 with 10 minutes to spare. High Street Cricklade Not just happy to finish my walk but also knowing my bus was only minutes away My bus arrived more or less on time - service 51 - and very soon I was back in Swindon. A 5 minute walk to the railway station and my train to Kemble was waiting for me! Having retrieved my car from the station car park I drove back to Swindon and the delights of the Premier Inn for another night.